Bill Armstrong 0 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 I just began making folding knives and am curious as to the best way to make the nail notch in the blades. Have experimented with several techniques only to ruin a fairly good blade. Link to post Share on other sites
Christopher Price 59 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 The notch, or "Nail Nick" is best done with a sharp punch made for the job, and done before hardening. A little touch-up grinding will take out any bulge from the work, and you should end up with a pretty professional looking feature. Best of luck. 1 The Tidewater Forge Christopher Price, Bladesmith Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 I use a dovetail cutter on a lathe with a milling attachment. Some guys use a reshaped stone wheel for a dremel tool. If you punch it in, do it hot. That's the way the old timers in Sheffield did it. But they were a lot better than I am! If you use the reshaped stone wheel, put the dremel in a vise and gently push the blade onto the stone, with the blade clamped to a backing board of some kind so it can't get away from you. Every time I tried to do it the other way around I ended up with a ruined blade. Link to post Share on other sites
Al Massey 75 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Other way is after the basic forging and prior to HT, curve it laterally around the horn of the anvil and then clamp it in a vise when cool and cut it in with a half-round file and then straighten out the blade. You should have a nice nail nick tapering in width towards each end, no problem. 3 Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 469 Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 On 5/11/2022 at 8:37 PM, Al Massey said: Other way is after the basic forging and prior to HT, curve it laterally around the horn of the anvil and then clamp it in a vise when cool and cut it in with a half-round file and then straighten out the blade. You should have a nice nail nick tapering in width towards each end, no problem. Not like I've extensively researched the subject, but for sure first time I've heard about that method, interesting! Wouldn't trust my skills to get the blade straight again. Since this is the beginner section, my method on my one and only folder was "real men don't need a nail nick" Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Dougherty 1,396 Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 2 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said: Since this is the beginner section, my method on my one and only folder was "real men don't need a nail nick" Well, that will make sure you don't leave the spring too stiff which is another common beginner mistake -Brian Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 469 Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 36 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said: Well, that will make sure you don't leave the spring too stiff which is another common beginner mistake Well you got me in one, you need dry hands and considerable hand strength to open that one BTW, was busy with several including two from your design, not completely done profiling all the bits when the lot ended up on the shelve for about a year. Since realized I'd lost track of the steels I'd used, spark test didn't get me anywhere. (sorry for the slight hi-jack) Link to post Share on other sites
Dick Sexstone 30 Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Called a fly cutter 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Thanks, Dick, I had forgotten about those! Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Since the 1/2" dovetail cutter I have is almost, but not quite, big enough, I think I'll get this combo: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08252017 and this bit: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02603124. If the M2 is too brittle, I'll get the M42 for $10 more. Link to post Share on other sites
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