Advice for installing Langets, and heat treating a really long piece.

[Bruno]

Hello Everyone,

 

Hope everyone has been well.

 

Finally got some time to fool around with some work I've had sitting on the bench.   And I can use some advice.

I want to install some Langet's on an existing piece I have.   It's a relatively long piece, which I foolishly allowed someone to attempt a slice with.  Too kind, I know.

Long story short,  he immediately proceeded to baseball bat the target with the side of the blade.  Joy.  Caused a crack in the wood handle.  Not super upset, as it

was a weak point anyway, and gave me the opportunity to repair it better.   Now I want to add some Langet's on the piece.   The wooden handle is structured in a stacked manner (Not the best method,  I know)   over the tang that goes all the way through to the bottom.  About 2.5' long or so.   The Black line is where it is glued and stacked.:

 

So I want to add something like this as a Langet on both sides.

 

My plan is to chisel out the wood to embed the langet and epoxy.   Traditionally, I guess they would then be riveted through the wood.  As this is a sword and not an axe, there is the tang that goes all the way down through the wood.   I Do Not want to drill through the tang to rivet.  Screws may be an option, but I am concerned I don't have enough meat in the wood to be effective.   The Tang is about 5/16" thick.      I thought about doing a collar of some sort, but I'm not sure if that is the best way, or even how to do it well so as to look good while being functional.    Should I add langet's to the front and back as well ?

 

Do you guys have any advice or options ?   Would screws be strong enough?  They may only reach in 1/4" or so.  Is chiseling/embedding a bad idea ?  I do abuse the sword.    I don't want the langets to further break the wood during an errant strike.      What are some other Options?

 

 

 

Second Question:

 

I have a long piece of Leaf spring I've drawn out.   It is about 1" wide,  1/8" thick,  and over 5'  long.    It is currently fairly annealed.   But dang is it a wet noodle when heated up.   I want to harden it up.   Not necessarily to blade specs,  just harder than it is.     Don't really have a container deep enough for an oil quench.   May only be able to do half at a time.  

 

Is there a way I can Air quench or some other way to harden it up and keep it straight.    I'd be happy if I got it to  45 - 50 RC.   I thought I could keep it straight by wiring/welding it down to a 1"  square stock and just heat the whole bar.  But then the quench becomes even trickier.      Am I thinking about this the right way ?   What are any other options?

 

Thanks Guys, 

 

-Bruno

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18 by Bruno

[Dan Hertzson]

1   Other options:  glued twine wrap and very thin leather over the cord.  In future I wouldn't recommend piecing a wooden handle like that on a functional sword.  You would be better served chiseling a lengthwise groove in two pieces of wood, gluing together over the tang and wrapping as above.

 

2.  You are going to have a lot of trouble keeping the 5' thin blade from warping when heat treating.  You will have to quench it all at once to properly harden it, and then you have to figure a way to temper it as well.  This is one of the issues with jumping quickly up to making swords: lack of decent heat treating facilities.

Edited July 18 by Dan Hertzson

[Al Massey]

Usually langets were either forge-welded or brazed to the guard material.

[Bruno]

3 hours ago, Dan Hertzson said:

In future I wouldn't recommend piecing a wooden handle like that on a functional sword

 

Yep, made it a while back.   Lesson learned.   This is all being done after the fact.    The twine and leather might work...

 

3 hours ago, Dan Hertzson said:

trouble keeping the 5' thin blade from warping

 

Not looking to make it a blade.  Just want it harder than annealed.  Likely gonna end up doing it in sections.    And see how close I can get.  Hmm, maybe a piece of angle iron might work ?...

 

 

2 hours ago, Al Massey said:

Usually langets were either forge-welded or brazed to the guard material.

 

Yep.  Would do it that way if I thought about it when I made it few years back.  Will on the next one.  This is mostly a repair.  Can't really braze on it now. Thanks though.

 

Looks like I'm gonna have some fun experiments ahead of me

Edited July 18 by Bruno