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You may need to turn up the psi; if you turn the red knob to the left (or right, but usually left), it should get hotter. If the psi is at its max, see if your propane tank is full. the fire brick on the bottom of the forge will also soak up a lot of heat. If you can, put a refractory cement coating on the wool because if you don't, the wool can release some harmful things. That will also keep the heat in better. Keep in mind that the railroad spike will take several minutes to heat up, so make sure you're leaving the spike in there long enough.

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If that's all the way up, either your tank's nearly empty or the regulator is bad.  It should sound like a jet engine and there shouldn't be any billowy flames. It should be a sheet of blue-white out the doors and the interior should be glowing orange to yellow in five minutes or so without the brick.  With the brick it'll take 10 - 20 minutes.

 

Check your connections, there may be a blocked hole somewhere.  Other things: don't use teflon tape on propane fittings, it shreds up and blocks orifices.  When you open the tank valve, do it slowly at first, then open it all the way. If you open it fast it can trip the OPD valve and drop the flow.  Where's the choke on that, I'm not seeing it...

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It's been a while since I used an asperated burner but, no, the flame doesn't look right to me.  Can you open the air intake to give the burner a little more air.  An asperated set  up like that get most of us to move on to a blown burner.  Much easier to manage.

 

Doug

HELP...I'm a twenty year old trapped in the body of an old man!!!

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Air intake? The only thing to open is the red knob and can unscrew the tip. I don't have any tape anywhere? It could be a bad regulator if so anyone have a recommendation? What's the air intake? Sorry I'm as green as they come. I assumed I'd be able to start by just buying the forge and trying it out

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Posted (edited)

I've looked at the Vevor site and I don't see this forge, but the burner on their smallest forge looks different.  It's got a collar with holes in it that is the air intake.  The one you've shown does not.  I don't see an air intake anywhere on yours, without it, it can't breathe properly.

 

Just a thought, I looked at the pics again.  There is a screw in the red collar.  If you undo that does it slide down, exposing some holes?  If it does, that is your air intake and adjustment.  Slide it down to expose the holes and try again.

Geoff

Edited by Geoff Keyes

"The worst day smithing is better than the best day working for someone else."

 

I said that.

 

If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly.

- - -G. K. Chesterton

 

So, just for the record: the fact that it does work still should not be taken as definitive proof that you are not crazy.

 

Grant Sarver

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4 minutes ago, Geoff Keyes said:

I've looked at the Vevor site and I don't see this forge, but the burner on their smallest forge looks different.  It's got a collar with holes in it that is the air intake.  The one you've shown does not.  I don't see an air intake anywhere on yours, without it, it can't breathe properly.

 

Just a thought, I looked at the pics again.  There is a screw in the red collar.  If you undo that does it slide down, exposing some holes?  If it does, that is your air intake and adjustment.  Slide it down to expose the holes and try again.

Geoff

So by pulling it down it does reveal holes. By doing that fire is blue and yellow. With some fire still coming out of it.

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if you get it to a blue flame, it should heat the spike in a couple of minutes. 

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3 minutes ago, nathan doss said:

if you get it to a blue flame, it should heat the spike in a couple of minutes. 

It appears my problem was incompetence then. I thank y'all for assisting me in this

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I would look at https://atlasknife.com/product/atlas-30k-burner/ I haven't used them, but they have gotten reputable reviews. Personally I would get some fire bricks to close off the ends a bit . You can mess with that as you see how it runs. I would also coat the wool ,with satanite or a castable or at least a rigidizer. 

Personally I would cut my losses and make the best of it. I  can explain more on anything if you like.

Gilbert 

Hopefully you are in the USA

 

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It's not incompetence, just a lack of good info, but you will find a lot of good info on this site.

I would recommend getting new burners (like the ones Gilbert recommended) in the future, you will most likely find that these burners won't put out heat over orange, which if you stay with this craft (and I highly recommend you do), you may want to work at higher heats.

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5 minutes ago, Gilbert McCann said:

I would look at https://atlasknife.com/product/atlas-30k-burner/ I haven't used them, but they have gotten reputable reviews. Personally I would get some fire bricks to close off the ends a bit . You can mess with that as you see how it runs. I would also coat the wool ,with satanite or a castable or at least a rigidizer. 

Personally I would cut my losses and make the best of it. I  can explain more on anything if you like.

Gilbert 

Hopefully you are in the USA

 

It doesn't seem that expensive and not rubber I'll order it pay day. I've sense in closed the back and made the opening smaller. I'll try it out and go from there. Got a decent pair of tongs you can recommend? I appear to have bought one that doesn't grab well

4 minutes ago, nathan doss said:

It's not incompetence, just a lack of good info, but you will find a lot of good info on this site.

I would recommend getting new burners (like the ones Gilbert recommended) in the future, you will most likely find that these burners won't put out heat over orange, which if you stay with this craft (and I highly recommend you do), you may want to work at higher heats.

I think I will buy that burner not being rubber will also remove the hose from catching fire

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Tongs. Oh boy. I don't have very many, maybe 20. They are pretty task  specific. There's "Kens iron" if you wanted to make your own.  For a reasonable price I like the "Billy" https://piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/search.html?searchphrase=tongs&start_page=1&searchFormSortBy=R-A&searchFormRootUse=A tong line. V bit and box jaw are my most commonly used tongs. 

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I would recommend V-bolt or chain makers tongs.  Wolf jaw tong are pretty much useless in my experience.

 

Doug

HELP...I'm a twenty year old trapped in the body of an old man!!!

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8 hours ago, Doug Lester said:

Wolf jaw tong are pretty much useless in my experience.

 

Mine too.  I like box jaw and V-bit for railroad spikes.  You'll need them to fit 5/8" square.  

 

Another fun thing, since you're new to this: when you're a smith, you adjust the tongs to fit the work by heating them to orange and squezzing them to fit the work with another set of tongs or a vise. Let cool (don't quench unless you're positive they're plain mild steel!) and you're good to go.  

 

Later you can even make your own tongs. It's not that hard, and for some things like specialized rr-spike-head-holding tongs it's the only way to make sure you have what you want. Spike tongs that hold by the head are available, but not cheap. 

 

16 hours ago, david harvey said:

I've sense in closed the back and made the opening smaller.

 

Glad you found the choke!  Start with it wide open and then close it slowly until you get a pale blue flame coming out the doors.  Closing off the back is also good, but this type of burner has to have enough opening to exhaust or it'll start sputtering.  As long as you leave about a half to a third of one door completely open it  should work.  

 

You'll probably need to tune the choke every time you change the size of the opening.  You want jet engine noise and solid pale blue sheet of flame coming out the opening, no billowing or yellow flame.  

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17 hours ago, Geoff Keyes said:

 

Ok. My next day off I'll slowly adjust it till its straight blue. Also I'll buy a second pair of tongs and heat up one of them and squeeze on spike. You guys are awesome.

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One thing I would do is to get rid of the brick and replace them with a coat of Mizzou or Satanite.  Not having to heat the mass of the brick should improve your efficiency quite a bit.

 

Happy to help you get things sorted

 

g

"The worst day smithing is better than the best day working for someone else."

 

I said that.

 

If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly.

- - -G. K. Chesterton

 

So, just for the record: the fact that it does work still should not be taken as definitive proof that you are not crazy.

 

Grant Sarver

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