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Venturi burner for propane tank forge


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IMG_9514.jpegHello- I’m new to the forum. I’m building a propane tank forge and was looking for some burner advice. I have an old timer friend of mine that does blacksmith work, mainly decorative and ornamental pieces. He had given me a spare burner he had laying around. 
I‘ve been a carpenter for 40 plus years but would like to do some knife making and  other forged projects. I’ll post some pictures and would appreciate any feedback. 
Thanks- Mike

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Edited by Michael Trivisonno
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Welcome aboard!  You'll get a lot of help here, but first read the pinned threads about gas forges.  We've got a LOT of info stored. 

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Thanks Alan!

I’ve actually spent a lot of time reading information on this forum. You’re correct, TONS of great information! I’m trying to weed through the posts. I’ve been taking bits and pieces from a lot of you seasoned guys. 


I’m going to continue reading and learning. 
An old WW 2 Vet.  friend of mine used to tell me

“ You can learn a lot more by listening, than talking “ 

Thanks again 

Mike

 

 

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One thing that'll help that burner perform better is to replace that Y fitting with a Ward brand reducing tee, 1.25" entries to 3/4" exit. This one. Ward uses a tapered design that increases airflow over a straight tee with a stepdown.  That translates to better air/gas mix and entrainment, for a much more stable and adjustable flame.  Might have to shorten the gas injector a bit to put the MIG tip in the center of the open port, but that's not a big deal.  

 

 

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I appreciate the input Alan, I think the style I have is a little outdated. 
I’m going to take your advice and modify my burner. 
I’m posting a couple pictures of my propane tank forge build. I’ve since coated the Kaowool with a rigidizer and letting that cure. Then Kastolite 30 followed by a coating of Plistix 900f. I will add a Lynn Mfg. insulating firebrick 3000- f rating to bottom of the forge. 

thanks- Mike 

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Looks good, but just use the Cast-O-Lite for the floor if you're planning to weld using flux.  Hot flux eats insulating brick like boiling water on cotton candy.  If you want a wear surface that isn't the cast-o-lite, get a piece of kiln shelf.  The insulating bricks make great sliding doors if you weld an angle iron track on the ends of the forge body.  

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