Jump to content

Venturi burner for propane tank forge

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

IMG_9514.jpegHello- I’m new to the forum. I’m building a propane tank forge and was looking for some burner advice. I have an old timer friend of mine that does blacksmith work, mainly decorative and ornamental pieces. He had given me a spare burner he had laying around. 
I‘ve been a carpenter for 40 plus years but would like to do some knife making and  other forged projects. I’ll post some pictures and would appreciate any feedback. 
Thanks- Mike





Edited by Michael Trivisonno
Add pictures
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard!  You'll get a lot of help here, but first read the pinned threads about gas forges.  We've got a LOT of info stored. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Alan!

I’ve actually spent a lot of time reading information on this forum. You’re correct, TONS of great information! I’m trying to weed through the posts. I’ve been taking bits and pieces from a lot of you seasoned guys. 

I’m going to continue reading and learning. 
An old WW 2 Vet.  friend of mine used to tell me

“ You can learn a lot more by listening, than talking “ 

Thanks again 




Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing that'll help that burner perform better is to replace that Y fitting with a Ward brand reducing tee, 1.25" entries to 3/4" exit. This one. Ward uses a tapered design that increases airflow over a straight tee with a stepdown.  That translates to better air/gas mix and entrainment, for a much more stable and adjustable flame.  Might have to shorten the gas injector a bit to put the MIG tip in the center of the open port, but that's not a big deal.  



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I appreciate the input Alan, I think the style I have is a little outdated. 
I’m going to take your advice and modify my burner. 
I’m posting a couple pictures of my propane tank forge build. I’ve since coated the Kaowool with a rigidizer and letting that cure. Then Kastolite 30 followed by a coating of Plistix 900f. I will add a Lynn Mfg. insulating firebrick 3000- f rating to bottom of the forge. 

thanks- Mike 




  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good, but just use the Cast-O-Lite for the floor if you're planning to weld using flux.  Hot flux eats insulating brick like boiling water on cotton candy.  If you want a wear surface that isn't the cast-o-lite, get a piece of kiln shelf.  The insulating bricks make great sliding doors if you weld an angle iron track on the ends of the forge body.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...