Jump to content
deker

The grinder build begins....

Recommended Posts

Deker

Hey Ive been thinking about building a KMG myself. How did you come up with your sizes , did you do a mock up- with all your parts and a belt?

 

Reason I havent started still thinking what the best way to get all the bearings alined maybe make a jig to hold everything in place????

 

Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Deker

Hey Ive been thinking about building a KMG myself. How did you come up with your sizes , did you do a mock up- with all your parts and a belt?

 

Reason I havent started still thinking what the best way to get all the bearings alined maybe make a jig to hold everything in place????

 

Ron

40790[/snapback]

 

Ron,

 

So far I just eyeballed everything based on a couple of known dimensions of Rob's grinders. As it turns out I was a little over the top on a few things, but nothing that will affect the outcome (mine will just be a little heavier and more "beefy" in certain sections that don't need it. :) )

 

As for final alignment, here's the plan (as it is...not a very good one really). I'm finishing the frame today and then hopefully getting together with a friend to cast some pulleys from Aluminum soon. I'm also ordering a platen attachment from Rob (since I want contact wheels on it) and will base a lot of the rest of the geometry on that. According to an email Rob sent me, the edge of the tooling arm is .980" from the edge of a contact wheel/platen. So, I want to get that set up correctly (with the platen I'm buying) and then I'll set my drive shaft length and idler pulley shaft length to match up.

 

Honestly I'm kind of leaving anything that touches or holds pulleys until I have pulleys done and my platen in. Then I hope to mock it all up with a belt, mark stuff and hope it goes together right in the end.... :D

 

As for bearing alignment, I think I'd have to try pretty hard to screw that up. I have to make sure that the pillow blocks on the rear supports are high enough that the drive wheel can spin freely, but I think that's about it. The side-to-side can be adjusted by scooching the drive shaft around in the bearings and setting the set screws where everything lines up. That being said I'll need a rough idea of where that will be before I go to the machine shop and have them cut keyways and flats for the set screws.

 

I'm not terribly concerned with belt length issues since I have so much adjustment in the tooling arm, my only real concern is belt tracking. I want to make sure everything is lined up correctly ACROSS the wheels, not in line with them.

 

Out to the garage for me...Let's see what updats this weekend brings :)

 

-d

Edited by deker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cast some pulleys from Aluminum ????

are you makin step pulleys?

are you having problems finding pulleys?

Lookin forward to see more

Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cast some pulleys from Aluminum ????

are you makin step pulleys?

are you having problems finding pulleys?

Lookin forward to see more

Ron

40800[/snapback]

 

What's being cast are the drive and idler pulleys. No trouble finding them (Rob at beaumontmetalworks.com sells them and buying from him was my original plan). Then I was talking with one of the guys from my local blacksmith guild and he invited me over to his shop to cast some pulleys and get them cleaned up and prepped on his lathe. How can a guy refuse an offer like that? :) Not to mention that I went from around $100 in idler/drive pulleys to just the cost of bearings (there's LOTS of free available scrap aluminum at the shop I'm headed to).

 

I did decide on one thing today though while I was working (pictures to come Monday unless I find the camera card reader here at the house). I kept having to change the belts on my drill press as I was setting up for different drill sizes. Not a big deal, but it made me realize how nice a variable speed setup would be. Odds are some of the $$ saved in pulleys, etc will be going to a variable speed setup.

 

More to come...

 

-d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lookin' forward to seeing it. Tell Walt to pre-heat the ingot mold this time!!! I remember Blacksmith's Days he did, but then set it off to the side because the aluminum wasn't melted. When he went to pour, the aluminum shot everywhere. Just make sure you're safe man... I'd hate to see you guys get hurt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lookin' forward to seeing it.  Tell Walt to pre-heat the ingot mold this time!!!  I remember Blacksmith's Days he did, but then set it off to the side because the aluminum wasn't melted.  When he went to pour, the aluminum shot everywhere.  Just make sure you're safe man... I'd hate to see you guys get hurt.

40810[/snapback]

 

Last year's blacksmith days he was pretty good about it, and I picked up the slack when he wasn't ;)

 

To be honest I'm mostly excited about any little bit of learning to run a lathe or mill I might get. Someday I aspire to have the whole machine shop setup going on here at home, but I gotta learn first...

 

-d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

um steped pullys from grainger are like $21.65 each for the expensive down to $9.39 for there cheepest one on there cheep list ive never had any problums with there cheep list pullys eather thay run real smooth

 

:D hehe have him turn you some thing real usful like pomel nuts or other more costly grinder parts mabe a drive wheel for a seprit small wheel machine or or thumbobs lots of them :( ok ill stop now

 

oh oh pore and machine a 12 inch disk to make a sander thay can be pricy and a good thick one is hard to find (cheep) and thay are better than a platen for flatening handle slabs and such (and you can use one to true up your platen)

 

 

 

 

ok ok realy ill stop now

Edited by dragoncutlery

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got a little more work done Saturday. So, without further ado...

 

21) Realize that you overestimated the width of the vertical support pieces

 

No biggie here, I can just whack a couple inches off with the bandsaw...

 

DSCN0170.JPG

 

Now I have a couple of 2"x6"x1" scraps....I'm SURE I can find something to do with them... :)

 

One slight issue though. The bandsaw pictured is one of the Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaws that everybody seems to like. I just got mine and this was the first real cutting it did. I made sure to keep some Rapid tap on the cut as it went to prolong the blade life (this is a decent carbon steel replacement, not the HF one...I'll get some bimetal later) and everything seemed to go fine...Until I looked at the finished cut.

 

DSCN0172.JPG

 

See a bit of an angle there? Apparently the blade guide wheels aren't doing that good of a job getting the blade straight. Anybody with one of these have the magical incantation to get it running straight? I tried all KINDS of words while I fiddled with it and not a one fixed it :lol: For these cuts it didn't matter as I was going to grind these edges to round anyways, but still...

 

22) Layout holes in the rear vertical support

 

The vertical support in the rear attaches to the two plates that will hold the driveshaft bearings. So, we needed some holes to attach said bearing supports. Now, there were a few things I noticed as I started to mock this all up. I knew I'd have two holes in each bearing support going 1-1/4" deep from the front edge. I wanted to make sure that they wouldn't cross the holes I'll be drilling for the bearing flanges. Convenitnely I sized these plates at 5" square and the bearing flanges are a bit over 3". So, if they mount towards the rear of the plate there is no possibility of interference. Yay!

 

Another thing I had to look out for was the holes in the top of the vertical support that hold the baseplate of the tooling arm box. After a little more studying of some KMG pics from Rob's site, I determined that the left side support (looking at the grinder from the rear) needed to not be right at the edge anyways due to the thickness of the flange mounted pillow block. So I decided to set the left bearing support 1" in from the edge of the vertical tolling arm box support (that put the hole right between the two for the tooling arm box base plate.

 

Third critical dimension here (I had to remember I have to think in 3D for this project) was the height of my holes on the vertical support. The bottom was easy at 1" up, and the top seemed easy as well at 1" down. (for those playing along at home, recheck my math...remember we're drilling 3/8" holes...)

 

So I laid it all out (with a few false starts) and got this:

 

DSCN0174.JPG

 

(That thick dark band is the firescale on the hot-rolled plate I ground off the edges so I could see my layout. That stuff was THICK and HARD.)

 

23) Drill some holes!

 

I decided to pilot drill stuff this time with a 5/32" bit. It was just about the width of the cutting edge at the tip of my 3/8" drill. I recall reading in my Machinery's Handbook once that your pilot should be about the same size as the cutting tip of the next size you're using. Of course I can't FIND my Machinery's Handbook after the move, so we'll trust my memory on this one :)

 

DSCN0177.JPG

 

...and follow with a 3/8" bit...

 

DSCN0178.JPG

Edited by deker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

24) Mock everything up and start cursing!!!

 

Remember the part where I said to check my math?

 

6" vertical support height

5" bearing support height

1" down from top of the vertical support

3/8" drill bit

 

So....

 

6 - 1 = 5

5 + (3/8 / 2) = 5-3/16" (remember, half the size of the bit is on TOP of the center punch :) )

 

All of this worked out to "a little too close to the top of the 5" support". Ok...really it worked out to "half the hole over the top of the 5" support". Despite my careful thought on this in all 3 dimensions, I managed to do something SIMPLE wrong again...

 

25) Drill NEW holes at 2" down...

 

DSCN0179.JPG

 

This thing is getting heavy...those extra 2 holes are to lighten it a little... ;)

 

26) Countersink holes (but only the 4 I'm using :) )

 

DSCN0180.JPG

 

27) It's hip to be square....

 

So now I began thinking about how to line stuff up to drill the holes into the bearing supports. This wasn't EXACTLY the totally simple "flat plate on vertical piece" stuff like before. Thought about it, looked at more KMG pics, had lunch, went back out.

 

I decided that in the absense of fancy tools and a steel topped table to weld jigging to, I'd improvise :) I started by taping over the scribe lines from drilling the bottom holes in the vertical support so I could spray some DyKem on the edge and not obliterate my earlier markings...

 

DSCN0182.JPG

 

Then, I carried the previous lines onto the edge of my vertical support plate. I then scribed lines down the middle of the bottom edge of my bearing support plates. Then I matched everything up!

 

DSCN0185.JPG

 

Now I did my best to get things squared up while maintaining the matching up of the markings and transfer punched my marks for the bottom holes on the bearing supports.

 

28) Drill more holes!!!

 

Started with a 1/16" pilot this time for my 5/16" bit (since I'm tapping these holes). Depth stop set to 1-1/4".

 

DSCN0186.JPG

 

Don't forget to level everything! I noticed that each set up varied for drilling and I needed a shim under the vise for some cuts and not others. Just a reminder to check EVERY time. The vise may be the same, but the workpiece isn't....

 

DSCN0188.JPG

 

Then, just as the bit began its ascent OUT of the hole, it snagged....

 

DSCN0187.JPG

 

I spent about a minute thinking of how to remove a broken off 1/16" drill bit. Then I decided to just flip the piece over and re-mark it instead...The next pilot hole was with my 5/32" bit which while a HAIR wider than the cutting tip of my 5/16" bit, seemed to work fine. I followed up w/ the 5/16" bit and then repeated the process for the other bearing support...

 

29) Tap the first hole in each bearing support

 

Don't forget to level! (ok...LESS important for tapping. but it helps me start out straight...)

 

DSCN0189.JPG

 

30) Bolt together and mark second holes

 

This works the same as I did for the tooling arm box, so no new pics here. I just assembled the bearing supports using the bottom hole I'd tapped and then re-squared and marked through the second hole in the vertical support.

 

31) Drill second set of holes

 

You know the drill here... :rolleyes:

 

32) Tap holes

 

33) Assemble!!!

 

DSCN0190.JPG

 

DSCN0191.JPG

 

You can see in this last one how much I trimmed off of the vertical supports...

 

DSCN0192.JPG

 

The supports aren't EXACTLY square to one another, but I'm hoping that they'll be "close enough" when it comes time to set up the bearings and driveshaft. If not, I think I should be able to shim the bearing flanges to compensate...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you had a busy day.

Lookin good ready for more :35: .

Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What up with the Grinder Decker

Im lookin & listen

Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What up with the Grinder Decker

Im lookin & listen

Ron

41280[/snapback]

 

Not much today...I've been sleeping off last night :wacko:

 

As for a status update though, the next step is for me to make drive and idler pulleys. I have the guy at Fastenal checking into some sealed roller bearings for the idler wheel. Once I have them (or at least the OD measurement) I can do up the drawings of my pulleys that I need to send to the guy helping me make them. Then it's scheduling time with him. So, depending on all of these factors it may be slow going for a bit. I hope to have my pulleys sketched out Monday, then it's just finding a time that Walter and I can get together on to make 'em.

 

I suppose maybe I'll start a little work on some tracking mechanism bits and the idler pulley support. The idler support setup has an interesting challenge in it fabrication-wise. I have a 1"x2" flat that needs to have a section milled out of the end, but I have no mill. Now, surely I could pay a machine shop, but what fun would THAT be? ;)

 

Since family I was expecting for the game tomorrow isn't coming, I may have a little free time...Let's see what happens....

 

-d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Deker

Any updates with the grinder????

Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No real updates in the past week. I'm hoping to get something done this week, but this weekend is busy with family and a blacksmith guild meeting. I hope to at least have my pulley making scheduled after the guild meeting though.

 

I may have slowed down, but I'm not quitting! :D

 

-d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PLEASE.

 

Somebody could be transform the size of the parts in centimeters??

HELLLLPPP.

 

Thanks.

Alessandro Andreotti

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PLEASE.

 

Somebody could be transform the size of the parts in centimeters??

HELLLLPPP.

 

Thanks.

Alessandro Andreotti

42057[/snapback]

 

I lot of folks don't know this, but google will do it for you. You'll need the inch bit in decimal (ie 1.5" for 1-1/2"), but if you just go to www.google.com and type something like "1.5 inches in cm". Google will give you an answer. Here's a link to the above example. Also, here is a link to google calculator help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i have been folowing your thread here,couldnt wait any longer

i had to finish my grinder,it is a AKMG, all aluminum,except for the

tooling arm and shafts, it sure does run smooth,these pics were

taken before i mounted the motor, Rob Frink done a good job

when he designed his grinder, tracks quite well too,standard.jpg

standard.jpg

Tracy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well i have been folowing your thread here,couldnt wait any longer

i had to finish my grinder,it is a AKMG, all aluminum,except for the

tooling arm and shafts, it sure does run smooth,these pics were

taken before i mounted the motor, Rob Frink  done a good job

when he designed his grinder, tracks quite well too,

42150[/snapback]

 

Man that's nice Tracy! I like the extended handle idea. Now, I've got some questions for you...(see, that's what you get or opening your mouth.... :) ).

 

- How tall did you make your vertical piece to support the idler/tracking assembly? I'm about done with that bit (more pics will be posted tomorrow folks!), but haven't fixed the height yet.

 

- How did you secure your tensioner spring? Is that just a piece of all-thread with a nut & washer resting on the top of the tooling arm box?

 

- I can't make out youre tracking assembly, do you have any pics that show it off a little better?

 

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one foolhardy enough to try this! Of course yours looks about a million times better than I expect mine will :notworthy:

 

 

Oh, and an update for everybody else. It looks like i'll probably be buying my pulleys from Rob. After chatting with the gentleman who was going to help me make mine today, he said that for the price Rob was selling the pulleys for I should probably just buy 'em. Unless I trip over some large rounds of aluminum in the next day or so I'll probably be doing just that.

 

-d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the assembly tracy used was from plans i gave him or modification of them, PM or email me ill send them to you if you like. They are simulair to Robs original but more adjustable top/bottom and side to side rather then just one, i think it helps for a "just incase everything isnt square and plum"

Edited by sdcb27

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to make it easy on myself im going to try to post it as i got alot of Pm wanting the details, with Dons permission. The plans were given to me by a good friend of mine, Ron Duncan a maker from Cairo Mo and a hell of a guy. Good luck

grinder_base_12.gif

grinder_6.jpg

Edited by sdcb27

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...