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deker

The grinder build begins....

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Sounds like you thought of everything. Look forward to seeing it.

 

On a different note, While I'm no expert, I would encourage you to learn to hollow grind using your workrest first, use jigs later if you want. With a little practice and concentration, you'll be amazed how nice of a grind you can do without a jig. If I had started with a jig,I might never have improved my skill. (just my personal take on grinding).

 

Philip

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Hi,

 

I was wondering, if I have access to lots of scrap steel but it's all rusted, and I have no angle grinder or surface grinder, can you use rusted steel? I'm still a beginner, but it seems to me that I'll be sanding for scores of hours, and then may want to put it on the mill to make it evenly flat again, which will add many more hours.

 

As long as my holes are drilled straight and true, my bearings mounted properly, etc, it shouldn't really matter for this grinder if the main square-profiled shaft is a bit rusted all over, or if all the steel plate is colored red with rust instead of a more attractive natural gray?

 

Secondly, for cutting steel, should I just use a steel bandsaw, or is a torch more efficient even after you grind back the messy torch marks? Or, I CAN get access to a a waterjet, which is what I'm doing for a vise, but for the vise I need a perfect 9" diameter circle from 1" plate, which better justifies it anyway.

 

 

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

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Hi,

 

I was wondering, if I have access to lots of scrap steel but it's all rusted, and I have no angle grinder or surface grinder, can you use rusted steel? I'm still a beginner, but it seems to me that I'll be sanding for scores of hours, and then may want to put it on the mill to make it evenly flat again, which will add many more hours.

 

As long as my holes are drilled straight and true, my bearings mounted properly, etc, it shouldn't really matter for this grinder if the main square-profiled shaft is a bit rusted all over, or if all the steel plate is colored red with rust instead of a more attractive natural gray?

 

Secondly, for cutting steel, should I just use a steel bandsaw, or is a torch more efficient even after you grind back the messy torch marks? Or, I CAN get access to a a waterjet, which is what I'm doing for a vise, but for the vise I need a perfect 9" diameter circle from 1" plate, which better justifies it anyway.

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

 

Deker your machine is first class, Ive been following your build and its been very helpfull in modifying some plans I have been drawing up so thank you for the play by play action.

 

Bernard, when you say you have access to a waterjet does that mean you can use one for free or there is a machine shop that has one at normal costs? If free you can just get a peice of 1inch plate steel and draw out a pattern and hit the start button then bolt it all together. That would be the absolute easiest way to do this but it would look much different. Check out this grinder designed and made by Bob Dozier, He is probably the best stock removel guy around and this is his choice for a machine. http://www.dozierknives.com/ If I lived Stateside I would just go over to Bobs and buy one and not mess around with with all this. While I do believe you can save a little money building one at home the time or months you spend building one is time you could of been making and grinding blades to learn and improve or sale. If someone was just trying to save money I would think you would be better off buying one like Robs or if you can get Bobs grinder which has some nice extra features get that one.

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Hi,

 

I was wondering, if I have access to lots of scrap steel but it's all rusted, and I have no angle grinder or surface grinder, can you use rusted steel? I'm still a beginner, but it seems to me that I'll be sanding for scores of hours, and then may want to put it on the mill to make it evenly flat again, which will add many more hours.

 

As long as my holes are drilled straight and true, my bearings mounted properly, etc, it shouldn't really matter for this grinder if the main square-profiled shaft is a bit rusted all over, or if all the steel plate is colored red with rust instead of a more attractive natural gray?

 

Secondly, for cutting steel, should I just use a steel bandsaw, or is a torch more efficient even after you grind back the messy torch marks? Or, I CAN get access to a a waterjet, which is what I'm doing for a vise, but for the vise I need a perfect 9" diameter circle from 1" plate, which better justifies it anyway.

 

 

A little surface rust won't hurt anything really. I would make sure that any place 2 pieces of steel come together you grind both clean just to make sure things sit right. With an angle grinder and a flap wheel though you whould ba able to make short work of rust even over a large area. As far as cutting goes, use what you've got available. I had the basic pieces cut when I bought the steel, but other things were cut on the bandsaw since it's what I had around.

 

Good luck with your build, and let us know how it goes!

 

-d

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I just wanted to say that this machine is toop quality. I would like to see someone try to steal that thing with Rob watching. It doesn't move at all when it's running and has got to be the most solidly built grinder I have ever seen. I had the pleasure of using it to work on my KITH knife. :You_Rock_Emoticon:

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Hi,

Ok, I'll ignore the rust :-) I've decided that it actually isn't so bad; it will perform fine even if less aesthetic.

 

Another question:

 

For wheels, we have aluminum rod stock. We will drill out the center with a boring bar, press-fit in two ball bearings per wheel, press-fit a shaft through them, then thread the end of the shaft and bolt it through the steel arm/plate. We would of course thread the shaft before pressing it into the home-made wheels.

 

Is this how it's usually done? If not, how is it done? I can't figure out why so many of these grinders have hex nuts sticking out of the wheel! Unless they did what we're planning to do, but instead of directly threading the shaft, drilled out the center of the shaft and ran a smaller bolt through it.

 

 

 

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

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Oh, a second question i forgot to ask:

 

I probably will also buy the grizzly wheel, unless there's any competing wheel in the same price range. The way that you have done it, with the two pillow block bearings, is the wheel essectially permanently fixed? How quickly can you change it out for a platen attachment? If it IS difficult to change out, any ideas on how you might redesign it to be easier to do so? I'm not sure how I would, other than boring a wider hole into the wheel and inserting roller bearings directly into it.

 

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

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I just wanted to say that this machine is toop quality. I would like to see someone try to steal that thing with Rob watching. It doesn't move at all when it's running and has got to be the most solidly built grinder I have ever seen. I had the pleasure of using it to work on my KITH knife. :You_Rock_Emoticon:

 

You flatter me Bob...It's still got a bit of an irritation vibration (moreso with the platen than the big wheel). I have some motor adjusting to do to get the drive belt prefectly trued.

 

thanks for the kind words though :)

 

-d

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just ONE more question:

 

are there in fact two tracking adjustments (the hinge, and then the two bolts that can rotate the hing on a vertical axis), and if so, why? Do you find the ability to rotate the wheel around a vertical axis quite useful? I've just never seen that before, and am trying to decide if I want to build it into my own as well.

 

 

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

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just ONE more question:

 

are there in fact two tracking adjustments (the hinge, and then the two bolts that can rotate the hing on a vertical axis), and if so, why? Do you find the ability to rotate the wheel around a vertical axis quite useful? I've just never seen that before, and am trying to decide if I want to build it into my own as well.

 

 

The secondary tracking adjustment (the horizontal pivot) was put in "just in case" things weren't square. It's pretty much a set once adjustment. I honestly stole it from a post earlier in this thread. It was a simple enough thing to do that I figured it couldn't hurt to add it in.

 

-d

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Hi,

Quick question; which wheel is the better value (after you've added work to the former), and, should I just track the belt to the edge of the 3" wide wheel if I choose it, or do I want to cut off an inch (absolutely doable, just, more labor)?

 

 

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

 

 

 

Here are the two choices for the main wheel:

 

http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006...name=powerTrans

 

http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006...&catname=wheels

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thats a really informative tutorial deker. it makes me think about going ahead and building the one i got materials for. i just want to say thanks for the info.

 

nike

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thats a really informative tutorial deker. it makes me think about going ahead and building the one i got materials for. i just want to say thanks for the info.

 

nike

 

Glad you find it helpful. I think I may actually try to get some pics of the finished setup today and post them. I also added a very ugly but functional small wheel attachment that will run Bader small wheels.

 

-d

 

P.S. Make sure you post pics of your grinder!

Edited by deker

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Hi,

 

 

lol, still working on mine, but almost done!! Anyway, quick question-- just building the platen, which like the custom platen in the kmg article (3rd result with google for kmg grinder?) will have the back open so you can use it as a slack belt.

 

I wanted to double-check; how far when making a convex grind say for an axe do you usually compress the belt? The support for the idler wheels needs to be as wide as possible, but at the same time, if you like to compress the belt as much as a half an inch and don't want to run into the steel support frame sooner, I should allow for that. Well, 1/2" will be hard.... but 3/8 maybe, 1/4" definitely. How much for a useful tolerance?

 

 

 

thanks!

-Bernard Arnest

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How did I miss this thread before?!?!?!!!

 

Fantastic pictorial!

 

realy cool that you did it all(almost) by just bolting it together!

 

 

Gary

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have you finished it yet

simon

 

I have, but I've slacked HORRIBLY on getting photos. If I can find some time this Saturday I'll clean up a bit and try to snap some photos of the completed setup. If I have a lot of time I'll give details on wiring up the VFD as well since a lot of folks seem to have trouble with that.

 

-d

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Gentlemen,

 

I built two of these KMG Clones three years ago and have been using them almost daily since then, and they work great!!!

 

If anyone is interested, I have a complete set drawings available along with pictures and material sources. Here is a small sample of the photos (below) and drawings (PDF file attached)

 

Grinder%20Help-3.jpg

 

They aren't that hard to make, I made my first one only having a drill press available, everything else was done by hand, hacksaw, files, elbow grease etc. They are well worth the effort, especially if you can't afford to buy one.

 

-Mike

 

Grinder__Main_Supports_.pdf

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Hi Mike

 

I would like to receive your complete set drawings of grinder.

 

Regards.

 

Alessandro Andreotti

 

aandreotti@gmail.com

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Hi Mike

 

I would like to receive your complete set drawings of grinder.

 

Regards.

 

Alessandro Andreotti

 

aandreotti@gmail.com

 

Hi Alessandro,

 

An email has been sent with all the attachments. . . it's rather large and may take a while to download.

 

Let me know what you think,

-Mike

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Mike

 

I receive your e-mail.

 

This is a wonderful and complete material

 

Really thank you.

 

Best regards.

 

Alessandro Andreotti

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Mike,

 

I'd be interested in seeing a copy of your plans as well. If you wouldn't mind sending them along to me I'd really appreciate it.

 

-d

 

P.S. I will get more pics folks, I promise...my wife has been out of town and has the camera... :/

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Hi Mike,

Could you please send me a set as well. Is there a way of converting them to metric? Wishful thinking.

 

peppery@xtra.co.nz

 

Cheers

 

Rex

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