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Kristopher Skelton

...now for something completely different

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The pics say most of it. The point is made from some 5160 1/2" round stock. It was heat treated but not to the degree that we would normally do a knife. It was really an exercise in guesswork. BUT- it does work as a spear. It's sharp, but not sharp like a knife would be, either. I buried it into my wood chopping stump about 10 times and the small hillside behind the house about another 10 times. I know it hit at least one rock. It's just really fun to throw. So the pics are: spear head and full length before throwing and one of the point after the abuse :) Oh, and it was dark out and I wiggled the spear the "wrong way" a couple of times, but it sprung right back (imagine that!). The haft is just an oak dowel from Lowes tha tI bought to make some handles from. But I HAD to try it out tonight :lol: That's also why I skipped the securing pin for now :)

 

I based it on Atli's designs at anvilfire and I took his advice: they weren't made to be pretty, just get them on the field as fast as possible. I'm pretty sure that good ol' mild would work fine, and if I had a guillotine tool I'd probably use sched 40 black iron pipe (flare out an end, neck down a few inches from that same end and then split the pipe lengthwise and shape).

I used my angle grinder and overall it maybe took and hour to flare the end and make the socket. Without the grinder I'd probably only need another 20 minutes to work the edge down some more and file it out.

 

Enough talking....

head_with_socket.jpg

full_length.jpg

spearpoint.jpg

Edited by Kristopher Skelton

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Looks like it would be very effective on an ancient battle field. Like you said "pretty" didn't matter as much as function.

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I've got a couple of galvy tubs that rusted through (former quench tubs) so I'm gonna throw this badboy at them tomorrow. Not quite armor, but it'll be worth a ... shot ... Hahahahah get it! :)

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Hide the hogs :D you will be out chasing things around the field with that! Nice work i made one and destroyed it a couple of years ago. Have fun with it.

 

Bob :ylsuper:

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:ylsuper:

Gotta love the quick-and-dirty but effective vibe a spear has, it's completely different from the knife vibe.

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Very Lord of the Flies. I like it a lot.

I if might suggest reforging old broken socketted chisels into spears and javelins. You then don't have to worry about forging the socket

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The only time I got into trouble when I was a kid was with a spear I made. The darn thing went right threw my brother's bike tire like I was aiming for it. :D

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Has anyone here tried to make arrow heads?? :unsure: They'd just be like really wide and short double bladed knives. Tie-on style with a tang would be easier than socketed.

 

I'm into the bow and arrow thing so I'm going to try soon after I get all set up. (I'm stilll in the "aquiring" stage right now.) :angry:

 

Andy

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There are a few tutorials out there- iforgeiron.com and anvilfire.com (I think...?) but yeah, whatever you can get to stay on an arrow will work :) Macabee has some pics of his "Irish Nails" in several places- small spearpoints on javelin/darts (the war style about 2' long)- that would make awesome armor-piercing arrows :)

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Has anyone here tried to make arrow heads??  :unsure: They'd just be like really wide and short double bladed knives. Tie-on style with a tang would be easier than socketed.

 

I'm into the bow and arrow thing so I'm going to try soon after I get all set up. (I'm stilll in the "aquiring" stage right now.)  :angry:

 

Andy

40101[/snapback]

Andy

I have forged a few arrowheads, check my avatar.

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Like Ktistopher said I've done a few square head with a nasty tapered point javelins about the size of arrowheads. I start with old socketed chisels I picked up at the flea markets. This way the socket is already made and all my lazy butt has to do is forge the point and burn it on to an oak dowel.

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I just got done exacting my revenge on a galvy tub that sprung several leaks and wetted the bottomside of everything in my work area (cardboard boxes full of beer bottles, car parts, etc). I'll caution you all that the bottoms and sides of these tubs DO NOT make effective armor against me and my spear from 20-30 feet (a couple had penetration the full length of the spearhead and none that hit had less than 1" ) :D I'd post update pics of the spearhead but it looks the same as the last pic above (it took some abuse from misses as well)

Edited by Kristopher Skelton

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Has anyone here tried to make arrow heads??  :unsure: They'd just be like really wide and short double bladed knives. Tie-on style with a tang would be easier than socketed.

 

I'm into the bow and arrow thing so I'm going to try soon after I get all set up. (I'm stilll in the "aquiring" stage right now.)  :angry:

 

Andy

40101[/snapback]

 

I would like to try. I think it would be hard to make heads that fly well though. I normally shoot 125 graon razor heads. The weight is important as it relates to the spine of the arrow so the few times I tried heavier heads I didn't have stiff enough arrows for them to shoot well...actually you could shoot around corners with them.LOL

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Kristopher, Very cool glad it's proving effective. If we're ever attacked by washtubs you'll be the guy to call. Isn't breaking and cutting things with tools you made the coolest feeling it really gives a sense of not only what the tool can do but a sense of power.

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Has anyone here tried to make arrow heads??  :unsure: They'd just be like really wide and short double bladed knives. Tie-on style with a tang would be easier than socketed.

 

I'm into the bow and arrow thing so I'm going to try soon after I get all set up. (I'm stilll in the "aquiring" stage right now.)  :angry:

 

Andy

40101[/snapback]

 

lively knifes

 

theres a arrowhead tutorial....

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Here is an arrow head that I made. The only thing I would change would be to make the side of the socket even with the side of the head. This can be accomplished by only fullering on 3 sides. Even with my weak recurve bow, that thing flys like a little spear.

arrow_head.jpg

 

EDIT: I suppose it would be helpful to know how I forged it. I begin with 3/8" square. I forge the tip first, following that with the fullered section to separate the socket from the tip. I cut the bar off at about 3/4" from the fuller. Then I use the cross pein of my hammer to spread the socket. Its almost done at this point. I roll the socket by putting it across an angle then hammering it into it to get it started, then hammer till it is nice and round. I usually put it on my beltsander to even the tip up a bit. No hardening is necessary.

Edited by Bob Ouellette

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