Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I'm about to heat treat an O1 blade with a clay coating. I've had some sucess with this in the past, but the hamon is always faint and uniteresting, so i'm thinking of doing a split second edge quench in hot brine, immediately followed by a deep quench in warm oil. Do any of you think that this would help to get a more distinct hamon, or am i just going to crack the blade? I'm probably going to try it anyway, to satisfy my own curiosity, unless anyone knows for a fact it wont work, but predictions would be nice, and i'll take my "i told you so's" with good grace, I promise.



Link to post
Share on other sites

you can get "quench lines" on it,.... like if just holding the edge in the oil... but no defined hamon per se.


I for one love that 01 steel... it's one of my main steels for all sorts of edged things and tools.

I put it in damascus billets.... make swords from it, axes, hammers, anything.


but not for "hamon" stuff..



Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. It's not a true hamon i'm hoping for (no pattern) so much as a defined line between the hard and soft steel.

I know it's faint and very uninteresting, but here's a pic of a differentially hardened O1 tanto blade i made; clay coating, full quench in oil, so it's not a quench line. I remember reading a Bob Engath article a few years ago saying that you can get hamon on O1, but it always evens out, and the most you can hope for is a shallow wave pattern.



Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...