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I want to see your Hamon

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A few of my recent pieces :).



270mm wa sujihiki, with musk ox, Oregon maple burl, and 5460yr old bog oak.



I have better pictures of this knife somewhere, but I can't seem to find them. 265mm wa gyuto.



265mm wa gyuto, with black dyed Hawaiian mango, and reclaimed copper piping spacers.



280mm wa sujihiki. The handle was actually made by a good friend of mine named Mikey Riggen in Hawaii.



Another wa sujihiki with a Mikey Riggen handle. This time with mammoth ivory and bog oak. The knife is 300mm long.



185mm ko-gyuto with more of the dyed Hawaiian mango, nickel silver, and 165yr old wrought iron that was a gift from my friend Dan Davis.



Another pair of 185mm wa ko-gyuto with wa handles out of buckeye burl.


All of the steel is W2 from Aldo, all of the wood (on my handles) is stabilized for kitchen use, and the vast majority of it comes from Mark Farley at Burl Source.

Hope you enjoy :)

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My latest, a W1 integral. I've been really enjoying the process of producing a hamon, and refining my technique aiming for better results each time.

Hi guys, lovely thread.   Heres one of my favourite hamons I made a few months back.    Steel is 125SC.   Jelle

Hey guys! I played around with my camera and phone the other day and got some shots I quite liked of some recent and semi recent work. Hope you guys like it!       IMG_

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  • 1 month later...

quite happy with this little tanto's subtle shear steel hada, suguha hamon, and ko-maru boshi.

nagasa 13.2cm, moto-haba 2.4cm, moto-kasane 0.7cm


(clay with water quench, charcoal forge, natural waterstone finish, no etch)



Edited by DaveJ
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  • 3 weeks later...

...and another piece of shear steel, sankaku yari with suguha hamon.

nagasa 190mm, moto-haba 28mm, moto-kasane 8.5mm


(natural clay with water quench, charcoal forge, natural waterstone finish, no etch...click to see more of the hada detail)




more here: bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=31981

and here: islandblacksmith.ca/2015/07/hatsu-sankaku-yari/

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Just another experiment to add to my notebook. Forged from W2. Quenched in 110 degree water. The blade developed a small crack near the tip.


Clay pattern using 3m fireblock sealant (FB 136) watered down. (No charcoal, iron oxides, sand this time)




Sanded to 2000g, etched with apple cider vinegar, and polished with powdered abrasives. I believe the shadows above the hamon is some utsuri but I could be wrong.



Things I would do differently: Be more careful with my clay application. Experiment more with combinations of sand/iron oxides/charcoal. Try different thicknesses of clay.


Hopefully this helps.

Edited by Austin_Lyles
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  • 3 months later...

Here's my first attempt at this in several pics (W-1 from Aldo). But, after spending too much time trying to get this right......(hand sanding to 1200 grit, then etching polishing, repeating, etc.), I have decided it aint good enough. So I'm scrapping it and starting over. I tried to find info on uploading pics, but failed. Hopefully, I won't exceed the size requirements or do something I shouldn't.


Here is the clayed blade (Rutland Furnace Cement)

Clayed blade.jpg


Here is the blade after HT.

Tempered 2_opt.jpg


Here it is after a lot of work and not getting where I wanted to be.

Scrap it_opt.jpg

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I think it looks great! A hamon doesn't necessarily have to have a lot of activity to look nice. What did you quench it in? That's probably your main culprit if you're wanting more activity.

Edited by Austin_Lyles
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Austin, I use a fast quench oil I purchased about 8 years ago from K&G supplies. Frankly I forget what brand they sold, but I think it was a Texaco product. I bought 10 gallons of it and am down to the last 4 gallons now. I learned a lot from this endeavor and have figured out why there's so little activity and why the finished Hamon looks nothing like the one post HT. So, I'm going to do some destructive testing on this blade to finish learning what I can from it and apply the lessons to the next one.


Thanks for the welcome Dennis. I hope I can contribute some substantive dialog.

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Beautiful work on that one. Simple hamon are actually rather attractive when polished out right. They make for a really clean looking blade. If you can trick the thin habuchi into prominence, the results can be exceptional I think :).


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Maybe on your knives the simple ones are attractive! Wowsa, that's a beautiful blade.

Tell me more about tricking the Habuchi.

I can't believe I just said that. It sounds like something they do on the wrong side of town in Tokyo........

Edited by Joshua States
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Thanks man!

Never been to Tokyo lol, so for me it just means working the polish and etch until I'm happy with it, lol. Every blade is different, and the more you work, the more experience you'll have in making them do what you want.

Maybe we'll get together one of these days and I'll help you out with some polishing tricks. It's awesome to find another local maker!

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My first one:


File steel puukko, quenched in hot oil, with regular furnace cement as clay.

Overall i'm quite pleased how it turned out.

I polished to 2500 grit, and this made it very very hard to get good photographs, because the blade is so reflective.




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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a few of the hamon on a bowie of mine from 2014, W2 with satanite and Parks 50, ferric chloride/lemon juice etch with 1500 polish and silicon carbide powder scrub:






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Here's an integral of mine froma while back, same steel and treatment:



And another keyhole knife of mine, with W2 and a lemon juice etch:



A closeup of some of the activity in that one. I loved it, very "cloudburst with sunny edges" to me.



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One more, a big knife of mine. W2 steel, quenched five times before I got what I wanted.


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A close shot of the craziness lurking in that blade:


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  • 3 weeks later...

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