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I want to see your Hamon


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Finally getting a good one thanks to Kevin Cashen and others. 

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Edited by Charlie Meek
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My latest, a W1 integral. I've been really enjoying the process of producing a hamon, and refining my technique aiming for better results each time.

Hi guys, lovely thread.   Heres one of my favourite hamons I made a few months back.    Steel is 125SC.   Jelle

I did this tanto a very long time, from the same steel

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On 5/12/2016 at 10:00 AM, Connor J. Myers-Norton said:

Here is a 7" Bowie knife made from a RR anchor (1060), the clay was satinite mixed with steel fileings and Fire brick powder. These are the best pictures I could get as it doesn't really stand out as much as I would like, any suggestions? I used white vinegar and lemon juice to etch.

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What does the RR Anchor look like as there are several rail ways where I love

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Folks I have been away for quite some time, and I have been super impressed by the amount of Hamons I am seeing.  I plan on being back in my forge very soon as I just bought a house and need to get my old shop moved to the new location.

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On 3/22/2017 at 9:23 AM, John Smith said:

Folks I have been away for quite some time, and I have been super impressed by the amount of Hamons I am seeing.  I plan on being back in my forge very soon as I just bought a house and need to get my old shop moved to the new location.

Congrats on the new digs. Hope to see you back in forging form soon.

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On March 22, 2017 at 0:21 PM, John Smith said:

What does the RR Anchor look like as there are several rail ways where I love

They come in a couple different shapes and sizes, they are often vaguely w shaped but you can check the type used on your rails by looking on the under side of the rail( they are usually between every other tye) the stock thickness is usually 1"x5/8"

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On 4/21/2007 at 11:38 AM, jake cleland said:

better pic of the hamon on my latest. clay and water 1095. think i'm gonna start doing more normalisations on the 1095 - i think i should be able to get more activity. sorry about the crappy pic, but at least it shows the hamon.

 

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Diggin this thread.....I wanted to attempt a hamon on the blade I just did...but read 5160 isnt a hood hamon steel.

When normalizing and thermal cycling fo you want the clay on at that point....or just before heat treat.

I am writing a bunch of the steel's down you guys are using so I can research and hopefully pick one that I can work with in my home grown forge.

I dont think 1095 is an option for me.....I read somewhere along the line it needs/like a 5-10 min soak.

I am open for suggestions there....and again you guys are killin it here. =)

Edit; hopefully its ok to ask a question in this section....if not please delete or move it.

 

Edited by Kreg
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W-1, W-2, 1095 are pretty much the "standard" ones, if you are in the states. The guys on the other side of the "pond" can let you know what works best over there.

Nice looking knives.

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On 5/14/2017 at 9:26 PM, joe pierre said:

Here's something from my latest blade.  Full post here: 


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This is sexy.....so much win in this thread. It seems like most the hamons I see the the lower/harder edge is darker than the spine. This one seems backward? Do different steels etch differently? Maybe its just the lighting.

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I've always enjoyed this forum topic and as long as I've been pounding out blades I've never purposely tried for a good Hamon. So this is my first try at it, still somewhat unclear about all the polishing process's . This steel is Aldo's 1075. I didn't have any sort of clay for coating the blade but I did have some dried and clumped up ITC100 which I pulverized and added water to until it was like mustard. I polished the blade to 1500 and briefly etched in ferric etchant, then cleaned up with 2000 grit and then used some titanium carbide powder(about 3000 grit) that a rock polisher gave me, mixed with a bit of clove oil rubbed on the edge. I have a lot of fine tuning to get the effects most of you here are getting. Practice, practice, practice.20170510_101610.jpg20170510_101446.jpg  

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fairly old low alloy carriage spring...traditional clay and water quench using a charcoal forge...~1mm thick layer of roughly 1:1:1 natural clay, charcoal powder, and polishing stone powder...blade is about 29cm long (nagasa), 2.3cm wide (motohaba) and 6mm thick (motokasane)...close up of the rough kajitogi polish done with very coarse waterstones (torajirushi 80#, lobstercarbon 120#) to check the hamon placement...

2017-tanto-3-hamon-yakiire-kajitogi-1170

 

watch it happen below (more info here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/process/)...

yoroshiku!

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Hey, thanks Joshua! I tried a new brand of stove gasket cement on this one. It went awfully bad as the cement grew like eurethane foam in the forge and became very sticky. All in all it seems I got lucky in my bad luck :lol:

Edited by Joël Mercier
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8" & 3/4" chef's knife, I hand sanded to 2000 grit and polished with a leather pad with buffing compound on it, then wiped with 2:3 ferric and water then polished again with the leather pad. The handle is indigo stabilized spalted maple by request. The blade was forged from a railroad clip/anchor (I'm very unsure but I think mine is something like 1070 with extra manganese). I used natural clay entirely from anthills and wasp nests, mixed with oak catkin charcoal and steel filings from the blade itself. Then I brought it up to heat with charcoal, let it soak, and quenched in warm canola oil horizontally.

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Edited by Charles Nicholson II
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