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I want to see your Hamon

John Smith

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Here's a couple of shots I did of this hunter I made. W2 from Aldo. 



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The fundamental cause of trouble is that the stupid are cocksure, while the intelligent are full of doubt. -Bertrand Russell, philosopher
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  • 5 months later...
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  • 2 weeks later...

Fun auto hamon on this 26c3 chef. There's a lot more activity on the right side, odd. As I was grinding post HT, I first thought it was decarb, but no, def a Hamon. I used anti scale and ground a fair amount post HT. 



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  • 3 weeks later...

All done on the utility knife. This time I sanded to 1200 grit, dipped for 10 secs in diluted ferric and washed the oxides with a 3M 3000 grit foam pad. It works better than Mother's Mag imo. 



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Last couple of days have reminded me why I don't really go after hamons. It takes forever to etch and polish and then I'm completely incapable of capturing the results in picture :lol:


C130 steel that got clayed with some type of muffler sealant I hadn't tried before and got an interrupted quench 



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Just finishing this Nakiri up. I already packed the SC powder, so it's going to stay this way.


Done 1.jpg


Done 2.jpg

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“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  





J.States Bladesmith | Facebook



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This was my second attempt at created a traditional style tanto. The first blade broke in the quench but the second seemed to have treated well. I tried to base it as much as I could on artefacts, particularly one I found from the kamakura period. Glad I got some good pictures before shipping it to the customer.



Copy of Merode 15th Century Kidney Pouch (3).png

Copy of Merode 15th Century Kidney Pouch (2).png

Edited by Robert Johnson
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This one is pretty nice too, and the hamon came out nicely for an acid wash. Of note though, usually there is a thin strip of steel that is hardened on the mune (spine), going away from the tip. This is to make the hamon more circular, and to make a more interesting boshi (metal of the tip). The fittings are very well done. 

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