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Soft brick forge

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Keep us up to speed on this. I would like to put one together for working on knives without firing up my forge. Wouldn't doubt it would be easier to maintain a level heat. Do you believe that you will be able to get it up to welding temp? Thanks for show us.



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Soft bricks rule, don't they? :)

Here's what I did some time ago: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?sh...ic=6401&hl=

Your hole for the burning chamber is as big as mine for the burners. :D

Don't forget to post back the results of your efforts.

I really want to see one of these working (mine was a failure :()

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I haven't finalized plans for the burner yet. I am sure with the proper burner I can achieve enough heat to melt the firebrick. I just wanted something to do some forging and heat treating on SMALL tools around the shop. The one brick design wasn't quite big enough so I went for 2. I have also made an extension ring that will make the trough longer. I just drilled through an extra brick and will be able to place it in the front. I'll take some pics later.



Noe I just have to make up the frame work to hold the bricks and burner in place. Oh, and I need to make another drill bit for the burner port.


As to burners.... I will probably go with forced air. Reasons are twofold.

1. I have experience with forced air burner design and construction. I also make pots and have built many kiln burners with forced air.

2. They have a much greater turn down ratio (operational range) They are just less picky about design and implementation.


I may eventually make some Reil type burners but for now, I will probably use forced air.


Now I need some scrap steel to make a base for this thing.



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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is a pic of the burner I came up with.




As it turns out I did make a natural draft burner and NOT a forced air type. I fully intended to make it forced air but I don't have a proper pressure regulator and this setup works as is.


Funny thing, I took the time to machine a burner nozzle for this setup and it didn't work so I changed to a 3/4" to 1" reducer and viola, it worked.


The body is a 1" tee,

the nozzle end is a 1"~3/4" reducer plug to an 8" nipple to the 3/4"~1" bell reducer

The propane comes in through a capped 1/8" pipe nipple with a #59 hole drilled in it. This is held in place in a 1" plug that was drilled with a through hole and 2 set screw holes to keep it in place. (if that isn't clear I can take a pic)


It runs well above a certain pressure but back burns if the pressure is too low.


Currently the propane comes in from the side but I am going to drill another cap and put the fuel source in-line with the mixer tube so that I can experiment with its placement.


so far it has been lots of fun.

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I coated the inside of a one brick forge with Satanite to see if it held together better over time, and sure enough it did! Takes a pinch longer to come to temperature, but big deal... it might be something to consider, after all the work you've put in!

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