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Question for Don

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I have seen you using the cord wrapped steel bars to sand knives. Are your flats; tool steel?

Mild steel?? SS??? Are you using adhesive back sandpaper?? Where do you get yours.

If this is on your website Sorry (I did look)

I'd like to make one or two. I doubt I can wrap mine like yours though




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Hi Tom,


I used bar stock I had lying around, nothing special other than it was flat and clean. The abrasive comes from auto body paint stores and is adhesive backed. It comes is rolls and covers most of the grits up to 600.


I wrapped the handles just to make it more comfortable to hang on to and they are simple.


The bars make the job of sanding go much more quickly and easier.

Don Fogg

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I've been using the same method ever since Don brought it to our attention. Works good.


The sand paper rolls are also called PSA, for pressure sensitive adhesive.


I got a batch from Grizzly tools, like this Griizzly Industrial PSA Rolls, only problem I have with them is the adhesive. It comes off the paper when you peel it off your sanding bar, or anything else you stick it to instead of staying on the paper. Also gets onto your blade while you're sanding and blotches it up until you wipe it down. The PSA rolls from the auto paint store don't seem to do any of this but costs more.



Dan Pfanenstiel

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I've been using a flat bar( 1" - 1 1/2" ) with double sided tape ( stuff from Lowes - really sticks ). Cut paper to fit. If you peel paper off carefully it doesn't tear ( don't use cheap Chinese paper - it will tear, come apart, etc. ). I have resued same tape on bar for 23 -30 (or more) different pices of paper. That way I can go with any grit and don't need to buy a whole roll of something I'll only use a 20th of.


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A trick I learned from Dr. Batson this year is to use good paper, but buy the cheapest Wal-Mart spray glue you can find. He stressed not to get the good 3M spray adhesive because it sticks too well. :lol: The cheapo crap peels right off, usually without residue.

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