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Is this a good anvil?


bladesam

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I've got a line on a local anvil that I could buy, but I'm not sure if its worth it. It's a 150lb 'trexiom' brand anvil. Anyone ever heard of this brand?

 

It also has a bunch of welding slag on the face, unfortunately. Can this be cleaned off without damaging the anvil? I'm willing to put in some work on it if this is possible. I think I can get a good deal on the anvil, but I don't want to buy something useless. Haven't gotten down to look at it in person yet (so no bounce test results yet).

 

I do have some pictures he sent me:

 

Face:

IMG_0289.JPG

 

 

Side/Name:

IMG_0290.JPG

 

 

I'm pretty new to this sort of thing (though I have done a lot of reading), so any pointers or comments from those in the know would be helpful.

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It's a Trenton, for some reason they started doing the X-shaped N in the 1920s or thereabouts :huh: . They are very good anvils, wrought iron with a steel face or in the later ones a steel top with a mild steel base forge-welded or arc-welded at the waist depending on exactly how recent they are.

 

I'd try an angle grinder with a flap disc to get the weld beads off, then clean up with a belt sander or, if you're very good, with the flap disc. The edges look good from what I can see, so no worries there.

 

I'd jump on it if it's reasonable, being sure to make a big deal over the welding damage to get the best deal. ;)

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Ok, well that's good info - I'm going to go and take a look. Thanks for the info - do you think I still need to do a bounce test if its a known brand/composition? Any other tips/areas I should look at? I have some ideas, but I'd rather not miss anything - probably won't have the money for another try for some time if I get a bad one..

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The face looks better then mine and it's not 80+ yrs old.

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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Ok, well that's good info - I'm going to go and take a look. Thanks for the info - do you think I still need to do a bounce test if its a known brand/composition? Any other tips/areas I should look at? I have some ideas, but I'd rather not miss anything - probably won't have the money for another try for some time if I get a bad one..

 

Yes you should always do a bounce test, you do not know what the anvil has been through.

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Yes you should always do a bounce test, you do not know what the anvil has been through.

 

 

Yeah, if it's been in a fire that would take the temper right out. A friend had a shop fire this spring that ruined a Peter Wright, a Euroanvil, and a Peddinghaus. :(

 

Do a bounce test, and if the owner will let you give it a few light-to-medium whacks with a hammer. If that marks the face, or if it doesn't throw the hammer back at you, leave it where it is. Or take it at a substantial discount and deal with a soft anvil.

 

While it's theoretically possible to redo the heat-treat, especially on a 150 lb'er since it's a manageable size, it's not something to try without knowing exactly what you're doing. :ph34r:

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Well, the whole county here is burning pretty much right at the moment, so I'm having to put off the trip down there (and to work, silver lining and all). My potential anvil burning in a fire is the least of my worries today. :unsure: Looks like my place will be ok (though no guarantees), but I've got lots of friends down south where its getting really bad. Seems to happen every few years around San Diego somewhere..

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I take it thay you're in southern California. Stay safe out there. If the anvil has a good rebound and the prices is right it should do you well. I looks loads better than many that I've seen on Ebay.

 

Doug Lester

HELP...I'm a twenty year old trapped in the body of an old man!!!

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