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B Finnigan

Groover/fullering cutting tool

44 posts in this topic

I kind of thought something along that line too, Bruce. Maybe could drill out a piece of drill rod and tap a set screw. Basically a collar that slides up the guide there and tighten the set screw. Since my guide isn't hardened, the collar could be and somewhat tougher than the guide itself. And replaceable. Good idea.

 

Dan

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I incorporated the notch on both sides of the recent one I finished. The brass guide plate won't scratch the blade steel.

 

groover11.jpg

 

groover10-1.jpg

 

Another one I just finished with a wild crabapple wood handle.

 

Garrettsgroover.jpg

Edited by B Finnigan
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Just wanted to add a thought here. Just extrapolating from machine work and the use of form tools. As the tool goes deeper and more of the tool is cutting it might get hard to pull or chatter or become more difficult to control. One solution is to start with a "V" cutter or to alternate back and forth between the "V" and the "U" shaped cutter. If it's already working well, then this might just be a solution looking for a problem.

 

OBTW: Really nice looking tools, guys!

Edited by nakedanvil

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i love this little tool, i was wondering on how large of a fuller can you adjust this to make?

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Since I needed a tool for cutting fullers and these scrapers looked so nice (thanks for posting them), I had to make one, too:

 

scraper2.jpg

scraper1.jpg

 

I made it from 3/4in square mild steel. The scraper itself is made from 1095 and 1/2in wide. The guide and the holes for the

set screws are 1/4in. I welded the guide to the bent 1/4in round which allows the guide to reach to the middle. It seems to

cut fine. The whole project took about 5 hours. How long does it take you guys to make these?

 

Niels.

Edited by nprovos

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I made the non-adjustible Groovemaster 3000 ( :lol: ) in about 30 minutes, but I got the one I use now from Jesus H. in a split second during an iron-in-the-hat at Bowie's hammerin last year. :D It was the prototype he and Walter made for doing some bo-hi, but after reshaping the cutter it does some wicked narrow fullers on sabre blades.

 

If I were starting from scratch and using 3/4" square I'd say 5 hours is pretty darned good, myself. Speaking of which, I do need to make a bigger one. When that happens a few months from now, remind me and I'll estimate the time involved. B)

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Thanks for the pics! I was just talking to some friends of mine about making something similar and now I have an idea!

 

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That is a very slick tool. Gonna have to make myself one of those.

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I want one, but I think I need to improve my skills a bit before I can make one.

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How did you guys put the notch to hold the cutting blade?

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I don't understand the question, sorry... It's just drilling, tapping, and filing unless you do the flush inlet guide thingy, which can be done with a file or a milling machine. The cutter just slides into the hole and is held with a set screw.

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Thanks Alan

For the squar/rectangle knotch the cutter slipps in to I was just wondering how every one was putting that in the tool. Drill and file I guess. A Bridgeport would make easy work of it.

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Ah, okay. The hole for the bit is usually not square, actually. Just a drilled hole with a set screw. These don't see enough stress to need a fitted hole, and it can sometimes be an advantage to be able to rotate the bit a little.

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@Alan Thanks for the info

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Thank you so much for this thread. I have been looking for an easier way to do fullers on both sides of a blade. I'm going to make a version of this tool today because I have a custom KA-BAR in mind and I think this tool idea will be perfect.

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A very sincere 'thank you' for posting this topic. My other attempts to create a decent fuller groove have failed, but now, I think I found the answer. Here's my take on the cutter. I'm thinking about drilling and tapping a hole for a set screw for the cutting bit. I had a railroad "paper clip" (a rail clip) with a diameter about 3/4". I squared it up to roughly 1/2" by 1/2". For the bit hole, I drilled a 3/16" hole then used a square drift to drift out to the desired size, 3/8".

cutter 1.JPG

cutter 2.JPG

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