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Bibble

Burners for forges?

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I grabbed a "Weed Dragon" propane torch for weeding and melting purposes, 100,000 BTUs, from work. Can i use this to fire a forge? The package says the flame alone is 2050 degrees F. I figure i could mount it and use refractory to get it to welding heat possibly.

 

Has anyone seen something like this?

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They are noisy, and real fuel hogs. If you do a search here for burners you should get quite a few threads. Blown burners are dead simple to build out of black pipe, and verturi burners are only a bit more complex. Good luck.

 

Geoff

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They are noisy, and real fuel hogs. If you do a search here for burners you should get quite a few threads. Blown burners are dead simple to build out of black pipe, and verturi burners are only a bit more complex. Good luck.

 

Geoff

 

 

I realize this but unfortunately i've been having one hell of a time getting to welding heat. The the closest i've been able to get is a relatively bright orange, not really anywhere near the straw color i need.

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I would look to the forge body instead of the burner as a solution to the problem. What kind of a set up do you have?

 

Doug Lester

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I would look to the forge body instead of the burner as a solution to the problem. What kind of a set up do you have?

 

Doug Lester

 

I run, or ran, a homebuilt forge with 2" of kaowool lining and ITC-100 made out of a 20-lb propane cylinder, with a simple Ron Reil style EZ burner.

Maybe the interior is too large and i should try going for a smaller interior?

 

The reason i don't run it anymore is because it got zinc contamination, so i have to go build a new one anyways.

Edited by Bibble

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How big is this forge, cubic wise? If I am picturing a 20# cylinder correctly, it's one of the 4-5 foot tall jobbies. Are using the whole length? If so, that's your problem, one burner is not enough, IMHO. On 'tother hand, if you are talking about one of the BBQ size tanks, you should have plenty of burner.

 

My welding forge is 18"x6"x4", brick floor, 2 inches of Kaowool, a layer of Satanite and a layer of ITC100 in the top. It's got a single 1 1/2 inch blown burner, the blower is 150 cfm, choked down about 90% at the intake. Running at about 3-4 psi line pressure and about 1/2 of that past the needle valve it takes about 15 minutes to get to welding heat, because of the brick floor.

 

Is any of that helpful? You might shoot us some pics.

 

Geoff

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How big is this forge, cubic wise? If I am picturing a 20# cylinder correctly, it's one of the 4-5 foot tall jobbies. Are using the whole length? If so, that's your problem, one burner is not enough, IMHO. On 'tother hand, if you are talking about one of the BBQ size tanks, you should have plenty of burner.

 

My welding forge is 18"x6"x4", brick floor, 2 inches of Kaowool, a layer of Satanite and a layer of ITC100 in the top. It's got a single 1 1/2 inch blown burner, the blower is 150 cfm, choked down about 90% at the intake. Running at about 3-4 psi line pressure and about 1/2 of that past the needle valve it takes about 15 minutes to get to welding heat, because of the brick floor.

 

Is any of that helpful? You might shoot us some pics.

 

Geoff

 

 

nono, mine is one of the five gallons. the little barbeque size ones.

I'll get some pictures up in a few minutes.

 

I'm also at about 6000-7000 feet above sea level. does that affect anything?

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Here are pics of the thing, I don't have any of it in action though...

IMG_3968.jpg

 

IMG_3969.jpg

 

also, i'm no longer running the one inch EZ, as it wasn't aligned right, so i moved to my original 3/4" burner.

Edited by Bibble

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You said it right when you said 20# tank, they're the gas grill size. Your elevation my have something to do with it if you are running a venturi burner. Your fire chamber might also be a little large if you are only using 2" of kaowool. you might also want to restrict the opening to the fire chamber and see if you can keep some more of that heat in. A blown burner is less troubled by altitude, or it's easier to tune to adjust for it. They are actually easier to build than a venturi and not expensive if you have a source for a cheap recycled blower. Only the burner tube needs to be black pipe. I ran mine the other day; it has a 12" burner tube, actually it should be called an injection tube because there should be no burning in it, and after 2 hours the reducer bell was still cool to the touch. So galvanized could be used for the rest of it. I was able to get a bright yellow on the steel and was able to weld structural stuff with it.

 

Doug Lester

Edited by Doug Lester

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You said it right when you said 20# tank, they're the gas grill size. Your elevation my have something to do with it if you are running a venturi burner. Your fire chamber might also be a little large if you are only using 2" of kaowool. you might also want to restrict the opening to the fire chamber and see if you can keep some more of that heat in. A blown burner is less troubled by altitude, or it's easier to tune to adjust for it. They are actually easier to build than a venturi and not expensive if you have a source for a cheap recycled blower. Only the burner tube needs to be black pipe. I ran mine the other day; it has a 12" burner tube, actually it should be called an injection tube because there should be no burning in it, and after 2 hours the reducer bell was still cool to the touch. So galvanized could be used for the rest of it. I was able to get a bright yellow on the steel and was able to weld structural stuff with it.

 

Doug Lester

 

 

Ok, Those pictures were a little before it was finished, and doors were installed...

I started this week on a coal forge as well but i really like the simplicity of propane.

Can you point me to a blown burner design?

 

I'm being forced to get rid of at least the first layer of wool because of the liquid zinc that dripped onto it, so i'm gonna go down a size and build a new blown burner if i can get my hands on that squirrelcage fan that my friend had been lying about his shop...

 

I've just had such a bitch of a time getting my forges to work that i'm considering just buying one...

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Altitude is probably the issue, though if I remember correctly, Ron Reil is also at altitude, and he gets welding temps.

 

Here are some pics of the burner I use, it's pretty simple, all off the shelf components. The needle valves come from a gas BBQ site.

 

BrnrExp1.jpg

 

BrnrExp2.jpg

 

BrnrT1.jpg

 

BrnrT2.jpg

 

Hope this helps,

 

Geoff

Edited by Geoff Keyes

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Altitude is probably the issue, though if I remember correctly, Ron Reil is also at altitude, and he gets welding temps.

 

Here are some pics of the burner I use, it's pretty simple, all off the shelf components. The needle valves come from a gas BBQ site.

 

BrnrExp1.jpg

 

BrnrExp2.jpg

 

BrnrT1.jpg

 

BrnrT2.jpg

 

Hope this helps,

 

Geoff

 

 

That does help. I'll try this one out at some point when i get my forge decontaminated. Seeming as it's winter up here, with about ten feet of snow on the ground, it'll be something to do. Have any suggestions on how i can rid myself of the zinc in the forge or do i have to re-line the forge?

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Add a second burner. I have the same type of forge with 2 burners and it gets plenty hot. The single burner in that just isn't quite spreading the heat. Although as the guys said a blown burner will do even better.

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Is that koawool coated?  looks like you may need to coat that.

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"It's alive, it's alive"

  • Haha 1

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