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  1. Past hour
  2. Byron studley

    Scramasax. Pattern welded blade with ornamented handle WIP

    Excellent thanks, I live near Lyme Regis if you know where that is, Plymouth is nice I visit there from time to time
  3. Byron studley

    A couple WIPs from Indo-Persia

    No problem, it's a good book for a wide general overview of swords and knives from all over the world and a nice section on bayonets. It also has some really fine examples of the weapons the Author is writing about with length measurements where possible.
  4. Charles du Preez

    Bayonet Identification?

    You might want to try http://worldbayonets.com/Bayonet_Identification_Guide/bayonet_identification_guide.html D.whitla put me on to that site some time ago.
  5. Charles du Preez

    A couple WIPs from Indo-Persia

    Thanks Byron. Just ordered a copy
  6. Charles du Preez

    Axe Type X

    Awesome. Thanks Jacek
  7. Today
  8. Vern Wimmer

    Designing a Damascus Pattern

    The thing about your work is that, (I know this won't come out right), is that it doesn't depend on any of its features to be fantastic. With a non-patterned blade that would still be stunning or replace the handle material with plain wood and it would still "sing". Butt simple with, say, plain straight walnut or stained oak, a simple guard and fittings and a homogeneous blade of "plain" steel and the form, style, design and execution would still carry it to a high level.
  9. Amazing work - I love the blade, the bronze, the carvings, the...... heck, the whole thing is gorgeous!
  10. Vern Wimmer

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    Good thing the steel didn't read the charts. It didn't know that. Is it really true that the austenite level is hotter than the burning level ?
  11. Alex Middleton

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    The good thing is that liquid steel moves really easily under the hammer!
  12. steven smith

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    Oh no, according to those charts ive been forging in the liquid range!
  13. Alex Middleton

    Help with guard slots

    Excellent advice above. I'll add that sometimes I'll predrill my series of holes with a smaller drill bit first and then drill them again with the right size bit. You can then drill them closer together and overlap them without your bit "walking" into to the hole next to it. Its toigh on drill bits, but with a little practice it works pretty well. Follow it up with needle files to shape and youre good to go.
  14. Vern Wimmer

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    Observation and experience are far more valuable than color charts since there are too many variables involved that affect color both to an individual's perception and in individual environments. Spend some time initially with your steel getting used to what it tells you. For instance. Heating it up initially use a magnet as the steel heats. When the steel stops attracting the magnet, with 10xx series you are in the 1415-1425 F range. Get to know what that color looks like to your eyes in those conditions. Next you want to watch for the decalescence effect. This will be of great importance in the hardening process. Get to know what color, again to you, that occurs at. The next milestone is when sparks come off the blade. In technical terms, for the purpose of forging on an homogeneous bar, it is called "too frigging hot !" You are burning the steel. Don't do that again. To put it in simple terms forging should happen in that zone between ""tfh" and when it cools to the point it stops moving readily under the hammer. Your reading should have told you the effects of forging too hot or too cold.
  15. Wes Detrick

    Help with guard slots

    This. Use a jewelers file. Drill two holes, one at the bottom of the slot, one at the top. Use the saw to connect the dots. I would recommend that you cut the slot as close to your dimensions as you can, but a little under sized. Use needle or small files to refine the opening until it is spot on. The only other method is hot punching your guard, which I don't do.
  16. Jerrod Miller

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    Unless you have a glowing version right next to your forge, no, it isn't really that helpful. That was my original point.
  17. Geoff Keyes


    After spending most of last week forging (Yay forging), I've got 3 scrappies ready to handle. These are all end cutoffs of billets. Antler for one, osage for one, ironwood maybe for the last? We'll see I'm out of cold blue, but I'll get some tomorrow. These are all spoken for, but I've got a bunch more small stuff (and some big stuff) in the pipeline. Geoff
  18. Gary Mulkey

    Starting a New Bowie

    Thanks, Will. The different patterns are what makes it fun.
  19. Yesterday
  20. Ah those, yep no clue from me on that one. I also found this chart it might help more
  21. Truly a work of art! This is the kind of piece you could stare at all day and still miss some details. Inspiring, to say the least.
  22. Hey all! I've got two great kitchen slicers to show you today, at really affordable prices! Both have a "French" mustard patina that not only looks great, but also helps protect the blade from corrosion. They are both flat ground with a slight convexity that aids in food release, and a small secondary bevel for easy sharpening. They come sharpened up to 6000 grit on waterstones and are ready to do some work in the kitchen! #1 Gyuto: $255 Add Matching Padauk and Wenge Saya: +$100OAL: 14.5"Blade steel: 15n20Blade Finish: 400 grit longitudinal satin finish w/ "French" mustard patinaBlade Length: 8.5" (~210 mm)Blade Width: 2"Blade Thickness: .061"Handle length: 5"Handle Style: Octagonal#2 Petty: $120 Add Matching Padauk and Wenge Saya: +$45 OAL: 8.5"Blade steel: 15n20Blade Finish: 400 grit longitudinal satin finish w/ "French" mustard patinaBlade Length: 4" (~100 mm)Blade Width: 1.125"Blade Thickness: .061"Handle length: 3.75"Handle Style: OctagonalLike I stated above, I can make some awesome matching saya if you'd like. Just add it to the total price and give me a couple extra days to make it. PayPal preferred and I will ship them USPS priority free of charge to the United States. If you live outside the US, just let me know and I'll work something out . First to say "I'll take it!" gets it. You can also contact me at YozakuraForge@gmail.com or by PM. Let me hear your thoughts on the blades in the comments!Thanks for looking,-Grant
  23. Jerrod Miller

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    That is the tempering color chart I was referring to (note that it only goes up to 600F). The OP was asking about forging temps. Do yourself a favor and forget that the chart you found even exists.
  24. D. Giagni

    Looking at my list of tools

    I consider a vise to be a must have. Even a cheapo import is better than no vise, but there are a lot of good ones out there on craigslist for not too much money
  25. Zeb Camper

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Thanks man! Hey, I saw it's your birthday but didn't have time earlier to say happy birthday.... Happy birthday! The knife looks good!
  26. I found this chart online not sure if its exactly what everybody is talking about here or not.
  27. Will W.

    Starting a New Bowie

    I love the patterns you achieve in your work, Gary, theyre intricate and mesmerizing.
  28. D. Giagni

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    "The Backyard Blacksmith" mostly deals with mild steel which can be forged a lot hotter than the steels used for knives.
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