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  2. First dry fit-up: I've yet to do some final hand sanding & polishing but it's getting close. I think that I'll save that for doing in front of the public tomorrow.
  3. Today
  4. Im Having a very difficult time coming up with ideas and designs for knives, My filing jig limits me greatly, so I can't have any recurve knives or any knives with big curves in the blade. So im stuck not being able to make what i really want to. But thats beside the point, When you are first drawing up a completely original design, how do you find the inspiration for it?
  5. The plus side is the grinds are very even, which is hard to do with that low a grind line. Full flat or at least 75% flat would look and perform better. I see what Chad means about the ricasso, and I see what you were trying to do with the handle stopping halfway through the finger cutout. It would look better if the scales ran all the way to the end of the cutout. Finally, although it adds a level of complexity you may not be wanting to face, a strongly tapered tang does wonders for looks and handling characteristics on that size of knife.
  6. clint c

    Bowies

    Thanks gents, I like the stainless one as well, a bit nervous that it’s not as tough as straight carbon steel but I let the customer know of those potential shortcomings. I should have been more careful forging the san mai blade as it ended up not having a centered core on the edge as you can see.....that’s from me hammering too much on one side I believe as the core is centred. And I am lucky to have a friend who traps beavers! Clint
  7. Hammons look nice, really like the lines of the 1st hunter size one with G10 or micarta handle. Clint
  8. clint c

    File Knives

    After forging I normalized three times, ground, normalized again, used satinite to clay the area I didn’t want hardened, heated to non-magnetic and quenched in Parks 50, tempered at 375 x 2hours x 2, did the brass rod test and chopped some whitetail antler after sharpening to ensure no edge rolling or chipping. Clint
  9. Dug some cut offs out of the ole scrap bin to mess around with in a canister. Had no real goal or plan in mind for a end product, just something to play with while waiting for my waterjet guy to do his job (he's slow as molasses, but free is a price I want complain about). 1095 / 15n20 twist bars in the corners & a strip of 15n20 in the middle with 1084 powder to fill everything out. In a 7ga 2" x 2" can. I've never tried a can under a power hammer before & I still think a press would be better. But this is so much better than by hand. Forged together & drawn out & bent. I really dont much like dining kitchen choppers in damascus, as there's to many little obnoxious spots to file/ sand. But whatever. What's done is done. Started hand filing but didnt picture it. Chasing a cold shunt I didnt notice sooner.
  10. Try any of the above suggestions. I also had problems with how my knives looked, and I couldn't figure out what it was. Once I started taking my grinds all the way up to the spine I was very pleased. My knives looked better, were lighter, and cut better. I also like the spear point and sheepsfoot shapes on an EDC. As well as a handle with a subtle curve to it, that is slightly larger at the back end then where it meets the blade. I do like the shape of that blade though, i like the slight swell towards the tip. i thing that with a higher grind and a slightly different handle shape you might like it more. Also the distance between the edge and where the handle stops is a bit large, it just seems kind of jarring. So a smaller ricasso area might help. Just play with it a bit, i draw a lot of knives before i commit to trying to make a design that is new to me. Good luck!
  11. Not sure what you mean? How have you been grinding it so far?
  12. It's ready for a butt cap & pommel nut. I'm thinking that I may go with 416 for the butt cap rather than damascus. This one is pretty "busy" already.
  13. I cleaned up the bevels and profiled the tip. i'm just about ready for HT. I shortened the blade and tang a bit so it will fit in my oven for temper. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to grind the tip post-HT?
  14. Maybe so, I'm not sure. I do know it's good and sharp. I've never done or used a gut hook before, so I pulled up pictures of other knives with em, and went from those. The fellow getting it is a local friend, and after he uses it, he'll report back to me, and if needed I'll make adjustments to his knife.
  15. The stock is thin enough that grind might work, but I agree 100% with Doug on that point. As for "ugly"..... I've spent quite a bit of time over the last two days trying to decide on a design for a guy that wants a knife looks cool, can be used for anything, and never needs sharpening. It started at a modified push dagger with a sheepsfoot blade, he has limited use of his hands so imagine a kitchen knife with a slanted push dagger grip. His Idea, I like it......then suddenly it's not cool enough..... To get back to your knife, I guess the spearpoint is a perfect compromise in all directions, and if this was a 100+ years ago that's most likely how your knife would have looked. In general I like the knife.
  16. I've got a lift for a knife back to NZ end of July so I'm making something for my best friend from high school who is lucky enough to have escaped. I'm using and O1 blank only 9cm long, he asked for a simple drop point, flat grind and a swedge. Long story short, the blade came out good, he wants black and green micarta......but the hardware.....he wants a bright finish, basically SS. Normally I use Brass of Copper flatbar about 2mm thick and matching 4mm pins......which is al the tang allows. I can't get 4mm SS rod in this country I have suitable mild steel and I was expecting to use that, I fully expected him to want something completely impractical, but now I have the complication that he'd like to use for food prep occasionally. I've never used mild steel for this purpose, is it advisable and how should I finish it? So Aluminium, I've seen the documentary, but I still use "tin" foil to roast veggies on the fire........also an option, what says the crowd?
  17. I tried a mustard patina once. I think that you did better on yours. Doug
  18. Looks good except for the gut hook. It doesn't look large enough to be functional. Doug
  19. Thanks Dave! Thanks Don! I would have accomplished nothing with out ya'll <3
  20. I taught a kid how to heat treat. I thought it went really well. I showed him how to spark test using a wide range of iron and steels, what grains should not look like, how to spot decalescense, and refine that grain in normalization, how to harden, and finally, what grain should look like. Something about teaching I really enjoy... Imagine, as a kid, finding an old vacant smithy; full of the finest blades you had seen. Things of old, of legend, and beauty. Imagine the joy... But, I say that smithy is real; it just awaits the smith... I hope I helped the kid find him today.
  21. Geez! I kinda skipped out on this thread. Maybe because I was waiting to have a definitive answer. I don’t know about definitive but more to add to the conversation. This is a redo of the small knife above. Polish to 1200 redline paper. Brush on 2% nitric acid. Polish off with 3M Trizact 3000 and 5000 paper. 3 times. BF23BF32-F54B-4837-AA15-CD9620645EB8.MOV
  22. All: We were going through some old footage from AF 2012 and found a raw, unedited interview with Don. There are some parts that should be edited (some zooms, pans, some times where I'm asking him questions with no microphone) but it's still amazing. Don is a great speaker, and so eloquent on the philosophy of the craft. Here it is, no edits, just the raw footage but I think it's still pretty amazing. Enjoy! Dave https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6X22DSdnzE
  23. The wood is American oak. They are bourbon barrels from four roses distillery. Im not sure how long these will take, we have a baby on the way at the end of July and we will be staying at my wife’s parents house for most of next month. But I will keep everyone posted!
  24. I hold it onto the blade and lightly set the locking screw and mark from both sides hoping for the marks to be about 35thou apart (for pre heat treat grinding) and then it is a simple tap with the handle of the small spanner if it needs correcting before tightening the lock screw. With one for each steel thickness it is set and forget.
  25. Yesterday
  26. had a similar issue with an auburn instruments not reading high enough gave them a call and the guy on the phone talked me threw setting it up to read higher see if you can get a call in to ink bird
  27. I’d guess oak of some sort, but I could be wrong.
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