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  2. I use a hand drill on copper and silver for that very reason. An eggbeater-type hand-powered drill, not a handheld electric drill. No downfeed pressure, very sharp drills, just let it cut with its own weight. Turn the crank at around 60 rpm. If you try to force it it will grab and snap the bit, even hand-powered, up to 1/8" bits, anyway.
  3. Thanks for viewing and commenting, Alex. Padauk has a beautiful range of red/orange and/or rusty orange color I really like for many of my knives in combination with ebony. I have been using it for almost three years and have not had a problem with splintering. Thank you Chris. I try to carry that theme on the knives I make.
  4. I'm not a pro machinist, but sometimes I act like one. Flatter angled drills, or slightly duller drills seems to help. Slow drill speed, and frequent pecking also help. Copper and lead are two materials I do not enjoy drilling.
  5. Today
  6. So I made a 3/8 copper billet to be a bolster on a knife. And while I was drilling through it, I snapped a drill bit!! How the blankety blank do you drill copper??? This was the grabbist crap I've ever worked with!!! I now have to make up another billet, but until I have a plan on getting through this stuff it seems a waste of time.
  7. Campo is pretty soft, actually. I assisted Chris Price in cutting up a similar chunk at Fire and Brimstone 2012 and the bandsaw had no problems at all. The meteor itself is kind of crumbly, though, so expect to lose about a third of it to bits falling off. Use plenty of oil and go slow, it won't hurt the Widmanstatten pattern on the remaining chunk that you don't forge. Although IIRC the pattern in Campo isn't that great in most chunks. Hopefully you got a good one, it's pretty darned cool when it does show up! I'd love a nice big hunk like that.
  8. Will Urban

    Space rock

    So I probably shouldn't be able to online shop during lockdown because for me it means new equipment consumables(mostly belts for my new 2x72 and my 12 inch disc) and steel all costly enough as we all know. But this one was a bit different I've been wanting to make a knife or something a bit larger using a combination of bloomery iron, hearth steel from previous smelts ,and i wanted something a bit different so here we are at the point of the story. I just got a campo meteorite piece delivered to my door. Its about a 3 pound or 1450ish grams. What I would like to do is take a few slices off one side and forge it while maintaining the integrity and if possible the widmanstatten pattern on the remaining part. That would be for future projects. Anybody have success cutting something with 6% nickel alloyed I imagine it'll chew up bandsaw blades
  9. Cool idea! I find those permanent mechanical connections very satisfying, so I may try that in the future. I ended up not trusting the epoxy, and put some "vertical" pins in, running from the bolster to the handle: A little weird looking maybe, but I think I'll get used to it. I probably should have used a smaller diameter pin, so as not to leave the ebony so thin around the pin. Trial and error!
  10. Good morning, afternoon, etc all. Here it is where I decided to stop. The tan dye turned out quite a bit darker than I hoped, but it's been a while since I've used it. I'm glad I didn't use the brown. I'm going to use it for a while before I make a new one to clean up all the flaws. Thanks for the help.
  11. Yes it does. I shape my handles with the blade attached most of the time too. I do mostly kitchen knives and hidden tang/Wa handles. (They're a lot easier, octagonal, oval, taper....)
  12. If you're worried, look up hidden pin. Better yet, check out this tutorial. He uses metal bolsters so the process is slightly different. But instead of press-fitting the bolsters in place, you would fill the enlarged holes in the bolster with epoxy for a more secure fit. http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/hidden-pins.html
  13. Not to burst your bubble, but I've been doing this for 30 some odd years, and, at least for me, handles are still a fair bit of trial and error. I'm still experimenting with shapes and process. Geoff
  14. Got a hand from my grannys husband - testing an old ESAB THE 250 stick welder - now in fully working order just saved a bunch o' cash
  15. Thanks Billy. I wanted to do some experimenting with the handle shape, so it would fit the hand nicely. I haven't done enough knives to know how to do that beforehand, so I glued everything up and now I'm gonna slowly contour the handle and design it as I go. If that makes sense. In the future I imagine I'll know what shapes I like ahead of time, and will be able to get to it without all the trial and error.
  16. I look forward to seeing this one progress!
  17. I thought some may be interested in my latest project so here's a look: 30" blade of 300 layer Damascus-- This is the heat treating jig that I used to help keep the blade straight during H/T. (It also works like the clay on a katana in that it keeps the spine from forming martensite in the quench.) Not shown here were several metal clips to hold the entire length tight against the middle of the blade. To give you an idea if where I'm going with this one, here's my first rough sketch of the hilt that I plan on making (I have already made several changes in it.) The fittings will be of 416 and the handle of blackwood.
  18. Well executed, John. Simple, clean and concise. No frills. I really like it.
  19. This is why a lot of folks finish the front of the handle scale before epoxying it on.
  20. Good morning, Alex. Probably. Part of the answer depends on how the tool will be used. I do mostly kitchen knives and I've done multi-piece handle scales where I've epoxied pieces of stabilized handle material blocks together, then sawed them in half to make scales. Not every piece had a pin going through it. I suppose if someone is going to use the handle as a hammer, I'd be concerned. Another part of the answer depends on the epoxy used and how well you cleaned/prepped the pieces I think it will if done cleanly. Good idea. Post pics.
  21. Hey guys, probably a newbie question here, but the more I look at what I did last night, the more I'm second guessing it haha... So I have a full tang going, and I built in some ebony... caps, I guess you might call them. Not sure if they're actually bolsters, since they're two separate pieces: I though it would look stupid to put another pin through that small piece of ebony, not to mention compromising the blade's strength at a key point. So I just drilled shallow rows of tiny holes on all the mating surfaces, and epoxied the hell out of it. Made sure not to clamp things overly tight, made sure the joint was snug and clean, etc. My question is, is that enough? I really don't like leaving a joint just glued and without a mechanical connection, but i can't think what else to do. I was considering some kind of hidden pin that only reaches halfway to the ebony's surface, but i was worried I would expose it when I start contouring the handle and removing some of the ebony. (Also, yes the copper liner is supposed to extend past the ebony, I thought it would look cool. We'll see haha) Thanks, Alex
  22. Beautiful man! How do you like working with padauk? I had a chunk I worked with on different projects for a few years, it was real splintery, for lack of a better word. Worth it though, for that color
  23. Thanks, Garry, but I don't "do" any social media.
  24. Got really fed up with my homebrew belt grinder, I had to keep adjusting the belt tracking every few minutes, I stripped it down again, made some brass bearings to fit between the tension arm and the main frame, fitted a gas ram tensioner and replaced the aluminium belt backing plate with one made from stainless steel ( was the right size sheet I had spare). It now only needs a slight adjustment when I change the belts, and the thicker belt backing plate has made the whole thing a lot quieter, the alloy plate was thin and tended to amplify the noise
  25. Got the last two sensors today - i think it will work the way they are with 1000 mm of cable and using and extra long one for the back sensor (ordered 5 meters of cable) Hopefully today I can get the baffle plates done - need to bulk up the plate by welding several thinner plates into one thick piece. I'm trying to decide what to buy of tool next - in the long run i'll be wanting : a plasma cutter, TIG MIG and stick welding (stick for the thicker stuff like 40 mm) but the TIG and plasma is my priority - that and a grinder 2x72 probly going to use 10.000 USD for the setup but I may be able to get a big ol' ESAB water cooled electrode welder.
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