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  2. With one more question Charles, You recommend the butane however I use propane gas so what have you found to be the difference? Or perhaps butane is more readily available where you are? (They do have propane injectors in stock). Just trying to eliminate any errors on my part! Thanks, Gary LT
  3. really like that blade shape, you've definitely got an eye for good design.
  4. Today
  5. You’re most welcome Gary. Tim Gunn is the one who put me on to them. He suggested a 3/4” burner is good for about 300-350 cubic inches to welding temperature and a 1” is probably good for 600 cu in. I have the latter though I suspect my forge is probably closer to 350 cu in. Make sure to get the butane injector though, not the propane one. They also never seem to have them in stock but if you order one they will contact you for payment when they do have one in and then ship it.
  6. Thank you Charles! That’s exactly what I was looking for. I do remember the name Amal which I had seen before, so I will look them up. At one bar the equivalent atmospheric pressure in lbs./ft2 is 14.5lbs. That is certainly do-able to forge weld in my humble shop. I have a smaller forge for every day forging. I do thank you. Gary LT
  7. Hi Gary. The forge is home built from a decommissioned 13kg/29lb propane tank. It’s lined with 2” Vitcas ceramic fibre blanket and castable. The venturi is a 1” BSP long venturi Amal butane injector (http://amalcarb.co.uk/amal-gas-injectors.html) as advocated by Tim Gunn; fitted with a 1” BSP stainless pipe. I run it off a 47kg/104lb bottle. Unfortunately I have no idea how much it took as I don’t have a way of weighing the bottle - not much I would think. I was really just doing the burn in so had it on and off a couple of times when I decided to stick the thermocouple in to see what the temperature was. It was running at 1 bar at the time and there is plenty of scope to play. The Amal injector as a lovely knob for accurately adjusting your air intake and a set screw to keep it there when you are happy. Hope this helps.
  8. Another step towards completion - tested the drill and bit on some plates, they seem to be enough to drill 10 mm holes in the tank
  9. Not in the shop - but I finally got time to install my new AC ^^ no more 32 degrees C in the house
  10. Here it is, after kith I’m going to get some carbide and glue it on.
  11. Slight convex all the way to the spine. You might consider a synthetic handle material. If you want a "true" broken back (without having to retrieve one using a delorean, hot tub, TARDIS, or phone booth) you need to lose the rivets. There has been one (maybe 2) found with rivets, and they are not of this type. Given the use I would use a synthetic like micarta or G10 with Gflex epoxy. I could go on, but it'd save a lot of caloric expense via my right thumb if I where to just direct you over to the pinned topics on seax in the history sub-forum. Good luck! Edit: I dont know much about steel: sorry holler if you still have questions and post some pics!
  12. Very good tutorial Colonel Mustard !!!!!........................
  13. Hi Joshua, I use a needle valve and a brass valve gate. Both will give me pinpoint delivery of air & propane. I experiment over and over to light and keep the combustion in the forge itself, using 2300 kaowool and multiple coatings of kastolite. (1/4”) I can light and maintain combustion with 5 lbs./ft2 however no wiggle room to lessen or increase the propane or air as the combustion goes out. Then it’s a nightmare to re-ignite. I changed all piping and and couplings and still the same issues. Initially I forged wrought to 1095 when I first built it, 1084, 1095 as rat-tail joins but excessive amounts of scale. The inside dimension is approx. 4” square and I stack enough to maintain heat on the billet. Beats me but I am rather sick of getting started on a project and then tweaking in vane. Thanks Joshua any continued advice is welcome! Gary LT
  14. No idea, you'll have to see for yourself
  15. Ive been waiting for this thread! I'm gonna try it soon. Do you think if you were to use a stone ground mustard (much more course texture) you would achieve a different patina?
  16. File guide arrived today, Im quite happy with it, looks like its gonna work! Gonna start working on the bevels once the weather cools down a bit, its hottest in the evening in Idaho.
  17. Yesterday
  18. It's up to you, I really don't mind You're welcome! It seems to be a common mistake. I had no idea what I was doing and ended up with this finish entirely by chance.
  19. Thanks for sharing, ive been using too much and it does hardly anything.
  20. A very intriguing finish. Many thanks for taking the time to document your process.
  21. Pinned! I'll even move it to Fit and Finish if you think it belongs there.
  22. Thanks for the clarification Jerrod. It's welcome. Tooling and hammer control. (it took me a long time to gain any control, and it's still a WIP, so I rely on my tooling quite a bit) For those of you with a power hammer or a press, get your dies set up so the ends are aligned and use the machine to set the plunge cuts. If you lack either of those, you can make a spring fuller or scissor fuller tool to do it by hand. You can also do it on the edge of the anvil with no tooling. The trick is using the right tongs and using them to limit the area affected by the hammer, press or fuller. There are two camps in blade forging. The first camp likes to forge the tang first, because it is easier to grip with a small pair of tongs. The second camp forges the blade out first and the tang last. If you are in the first camp, you will need a pair of offset tongs, the second camp can use a box-jaw tong or offset tongs, the tongs just have to fit the size of the stock. Mark the location where you want the plunge cut on one side of the blade blank with a soapstone or white charcoal pencil. Remember to leave yourself some extra room for the grinding process. Bring the steel up to heat and grip the tongs on the hot steel at that line. Butt the tongs up against the tooling or the anvil edge and strike the plunge on the first side, flip it over (don't move the tongs!) and strike the other side. Repeat as necessary to develop the plunge cut.
  23. When I first got interested in mustard patinas, I asked around how it was done and the answer I got was "you put mustard on the blade". While I understand it meant there was no wrong ways to do it, I was hoping for a bit more details . Now that I've done a few patinas and had A LOT of requests on how I get this stonewashed look, I'm going to give you the details in this short tutorial. This bladesport'ish blade was not intended to have a patina but it was the only one I had around that's large enough for a good demo. In case you wondered, it is 80CrV2 steel. This patina will work pretty good on any simple carbon or tool steels, as long as they don't contain too much nickel like 15n20 or L6. The nickel increases the steel's resistance to acid. So, what I first do is hand sand the blade to #800. It may not be necessary but I like how, after the patina is done, the blade is still shiny from a certain angle of view and shows how good the finish is. After the blade is finished and cleaned with acetone or brake cleaner, I use these cotton pads to dab the mustard. Only a small amount of mustard is necessary. The thinner the layer, the darker the finish. I dab a LOT to get an even layout. Now is the time to let it dry. Wait at least 30 minutes. Then clean thoroughly in soapy water and dry. Here's what it looks like after just one layer. You may be satisfied and stop there or do a second layer for a darker and more homogeneous finish. Everywhere there was tiny mustard spikes is where the blade did barely etch and shows those lighter spots. Now a second coat. And how it looks after a good cleaning. I have found that applying a thin film of food grade mineral oil darkens the finish even further. It's not been applied yet on these photos. If you have any questions, please ask and I'll update the tutorial if needed.
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