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  2. I'd spring for the tool steel. I'm probably a buyer for 2 of them to be honest.
  3. $10/lb total for a brand new 1500 lb anvil? That almost worth it for the bragging rights Of course, I don't have the kind of money, so it's easy for me to say!
  4. To keep the DA theme going: yeah, that was almost, but not entirely quite likely to have been a poor choice. However, thin layers of metals and card stock held together with a suitable epoxy might be interesting for some handle hardware. It really isn't any different than micarta...
  5. E6000, I bought some of that a while back for odd ball uses. I haven't used it much so can't say about the hold. I do know one thing it has a wicked smell, in a closed in area, it will about gag you!! I got it to replace what they use to call shoe goo!! Just to have something in the shop for oddball uses. Like Alan said for fixing shoes or such. For what you are using it for it may be OK. The best way to tell how it is going to hold up is too use and abuse it!! Personally like I said I have only used it once and from that experience I don't believe I would use it for gluing handles!! Just MHO!! I believe in 2 part epoxy I rarely use any thing else, however if what I am using has been opened several times or I can't remember how old it may be. I can it or use it for something besides my knives. I got started using 2 part epoxy when I was furniture making and I really believe in the strength of the epoxy! Not going to get into the kind I use as that morphs over into the Glue Wars!! As for Arkansas I have never been there but once and was passing thru, just picking!!! LOL
  6. I agree with Brian. The advantage of a tube with one end closed is twofold: it heats more evenly and you can throw a little charcoal or wood in the end to eliminate scale and decarburization. If the tube is open on both ends it's just a chimney and will not help at all. BUT: while you can indeed totally eliminate oxidation and decarb, you can't fight grain growth over time. That's why people doing multiples are usually dipping a rack of blades into a molten salt pot. Simultaneous even heating and atmospheric protection, and simultaneous quenching. You can do it with gas or coal, it's just risky.
  7. Yep. With the steels I use, heat treating usually begins with normalizing and ends with tempering.
  8. I use E6000 to fix my boots when the soles start coming off, and it's good for that, but I kind of doubt it's great for your purpose. Just for the record, of course. And Douglas Adams is one of my heroes, well done!
  9. @Wes much appreciated...indeed, redemptive art... ^____^
  10. You may want to see if it's already hardened. These would have been ground wet on a large (think 6 feet or more diameter) stone wheel with a continuous water drip or spray, which lets you grind hardened steel without removing the temper. Since it's safer, potential warp-wise, to harden a kitchen knife before grinding it to final thickness, I suspect these blanks may be hard already. I could be wrong, of course!
  11. Today
  12. I'll see what I can do to get some of these available and actual pricing. Any requests for an alloy type that would be most preferred? I am thinking it will really be down to high chrome white iron or the tool steel we use for the Rhinos (and heat treated). The HCWI would be cheaper, but would heat treated tool steel be worth a few extra bucks to you guys?
  13. I work at a steel foundry, so cast tool steel, through hardened. We make the Rhino anvils that Incandescent Ironworks sells. We have a fairly small maximum pour size of about 2000, but an anvil should have a decent enough yield to make it so we could probably at least get close to a 1500 pounder, but other foundries could certainly do it. The last foundry I worked at, where I cast my current anvil, could easily handle a 3,000 pound anvil. The big thing about pricing something like that is the tooling (pattern). You would probably be looking at $3000-5000 just for the pattern, then probably about $5 per pound of finished anvil. Different foundries will have different alloys and rates though. A one-off project like that would almost certainly cost a bit more (per piece) than a large quantity order. You may end up looking at something over $6 per pound due to the custom nature of it (again, that is on top of the pattern cost).
  14. Normalizing is part of heat treat. Heat treat is a very general term encompassing everything from annealing, normalizing, austenitizing and quenching, tempering, and everything in between. Since you don't know what was done to them exactly, normalizing would probably be wise, but may in fact not be necessary.
  15. That steel is very very lovely. Beautiful work David. I would imagine that the original smith would be happy to know his work was "saved" and had new life breathed into it. I have never been struck by the need to used reclaimed materials, but I understand why you do. This knife is a testament to that. Cheers to you
  16. You wouldn't normalize the steel?
  17. That is basically correct. As with everything, the devil is in the details. If I were fishing that blade, I would probably grind it until the edge was a little less than half as thick as it is now, and the heat treat it.
  18. Hello Everyone. I'm new here, and to the wonderful world of knife making. I've read a lot and watched a lot of videos. I do have a few questions though and hope I can get some advice/guidance. I'm building a 2x72 belt grinder, have a metal band saw, and will be picking up a kiln for heat treating ($150 Craigslist find). Now to the heart of the matter. I want to make kitchen knives and decided to purchase some old knife blanks off eBay. I found some blanks made by the French company "Four Star Elephant" in the early 1900's and need to finish them. They were drop forged and are carbon steel. After they were forged, they got packed away in a warehouse and are just now seeing the light of day. I'm thinking, and correct/guide me if I'm wrong, that I should do about 50-70% of the grinding first. Then normalize the blade. Then heat treat with an oil quench, and follow it up with a tempering cycle. Then finish my grind, afix a handle, and sharpen. Is this how I should go about finishing this already forged knife?
  19. Its a good question as I am tearing down my old rockpile forge and building a new one. Assuming I have 2 T-rexes by Hybrid burners and the back of the forge is two brick slit - that can be opened and closed when doing long pieces, how far from each other should I place them? The inner dimensions are 500X125X125 mm. The burners will go into slots cut into the side bricks. Material of bricks is silimanit. Jaro
  20. You can use rectangular tubing with no problem. However, any tube only helps with the hot spots, it does not eliminate them. I think you are getting the cart in front of the horse on this one. Heat treat a few blades once the gas forge is up and running and see how it goes. I think you will decide that trying to do 6 at once is not going to yield optimal results.
  21. @C Craft being from Arkansas is a whole other can of worms. The stuff I used is actually e6000, left a 0 off. It has a little less tensile strength than the epoxy I'm using, with quite a bit more elasticity. The idea was to approximate vulcanized paper to create a kind of expansion joint.
  22. Zep, that is not oxpho blue but my etching process, thinks its the coffee making that blue-ich patina, after the coffee i use local acid that i apply whit a peace of cloth. btw welkome Joe, hard not to miss ya
  23. Thanks Jon, the ring i can explain as it was drifted whit hammer drift more or less oval, the brass ring was hammed from one brass strip and overlaps unevenly over the eye. This increases the visual effect of unevenness. But who cares i was damm happy to have a tight fit from one strip
  24. Jerrod - How pricey though ? And what kind of size are we talking ? I Would love to see the guys I work with their faces seeing a 1500 pound anvil or an even bigger one would be great ^^. Also - the anvils you make, are they with heat treated top plate or cast steel ?
  25. Is it concern with fumes or impregnating the surface of the steel?
  26. Not first, never photoed and then destroyed, but second.
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