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  1. Today
  2. What he said Going by those photos I suspect your tip should be okay, but that last part of the edge might not be hardened. Maybe normalize a few times and try again? Just a WAG, but maybe get a longer container for your oil, maybe the handle banging against the edge of the container prevents the rear part of the blade going deep enough in the oil?
  3. Thank you all. I cut out the blanks last night, 2 blades 20cm (7.8") long. I would've liked to go for an interesting hamon with clay instead of just a boring edge quench, but I'm scared either option would just increase the chance of a warp. Considering the advice here I'm going to make a practice blades first, one just profiled and another with the bevel ground in, see what happens,
  4. https://www.antique-swords.com/british-infantry.html
  5. I use the edge of a halfround file to put several notches all over my pins, same idea as Garry, a mechanical lock caused by the glue. With the right glue and some penetration into the handle material I can assure you it's very strong.
  6. Ok, I've been trying to find out what type of swords were carried by British infantry officers circa 1700-1750. I've checked Matt Easton's site and a history site run by an excellent you lady in a push up bra and I seems like there is no reference to before 1796. Were they something like a pre-spadroon spadroon or a cut and thrust side sword? Doug
  7. Outstanding! What else is there to say? Doug
  8. I would be willing to put in a bit of time in order to produce it myself if I get a good recipe I can trust. I expect up to 2300F operating temps, and I can fire it up to 3000F if that's how it cures, which is the only time I'd ever exceed 2300F.
  9. I changed horses today and made a start on a stock for an early (english) style stalking rifle for a friends rifle that came down from his father (recently deceased) It had a euro stock that didnt fit him so hence the new stock. A little different as he is in the US and sending the barreled action is not an option so parts from my 'spares' box come into play.
  10. I run a groove round the center of the pin (on the edge of the belt on the grinder) and add a countersink to both the underside of the scale and the tang so there is a dam of epoxy that locks into the groove in the pin and in any case the pins are more to help with sheer than to hold the scales on, so hidden pins should be no less secure than through pins all else being equal. I have done a couple this way and had complete confidence in the method.
  11. +1 @Austin_Lyles I did some more work on my Tale of Six Blades WIP and a little forge welding on that twisted 4-way bar. After cutting it in half, I re-welded it back together with the insides out. What started as a roughly 10" long, 7/8" square bar, is now 14 " long and 5/16" thick.
  12. Just a little bit of progress today. I have to tell you that the dagger has been taken off the bench for a long while. It will take more time than I have to devote to it right now. I did make another W2 blade. It will be an EDC take-down. I just realized that I failed to take any photos of the forging or HT process, which is a shame. Anyway, I drew down the tang and took that to 320 grit today. Then I took that big camp knife, fitted a new guard to it (third try is the charm I guess), Drilled the blind pins for the spacer package and got it indexed to the Amboyna block. (I drilled and fit the block to the tang Sunday) I also sanded the blade to 600 grit on the disc and it's ready for handle shaping.
  13. As some of you know, I'm just getting started in this journey. One of the things I've considered experimenting with is attaching slab handles with hidden pins. I think I fully understand the "how", but what I'm curious about is "how durable" are they? I presently use AcraGlass for epoxy and mix it for the full 4 minutes as the instruction say to do. (I've already learned from experience it's not good to under-mix this stuff!) So are hidden pins as effective as through pins?
  14. Geoff, thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into pinning that in place and see if I can do it without it being noticeable. I bought these castings from USA Knife Maker https://usaknifemaker.com/. I bought a piece of 26C3 to make the blade out of. I have never used it before but they say it makes a nice hamon. I'm going to try to get the hamon to look like it's coming out the snakes mouth, like a tongue. If I can get the shape and placement right, it should look pretty cool. Speaking of Japanese swords, I am currently making a Wakizashi out of a piece of ladder Damascus I made. I actually bought a red stingray hide for the handle before I learned that is what they used in many cases. I saw them at the leather store and just felt the bumps on the hide would work good for grip. I also bought some dark purple wrap for it. I was going to post some pics of it in the work in progress page. It's blade is 17.5", or 44.5 cm.
  15. clint c


    Thanks gents, big ones certainly take a lot of time to make but I sure enjoy how they feel when they are done! Clint
  16. Thanks, Gerald! I might do some blades after all, idk. I've yet to do anything in preparation for this, because I've been nursing my dog back to health. He got a leg amputated today. I feel bad for what He's going through (as does my bank account), but he keeps showing me he has the will to live, so who am I to say he can't? So, what I know now: it's a guided tour. There will be 5 groups I believe. From 10-3 means I'll have each group maybe 45 minutes(?). They want to do the forging "outside on the concrete patio".... I told the woman the problems with forging outdoors. We're gonna meet in March sometime. I'm not sure this is going to be that great. Imagine me with my air pig style forge under one of those blue tent things. Might not be so bad. I dont even think they will entertain coal or charcoal. And maybe it would be looked at as jeapordizing history to forge inside. I dont really see it that way, but I can see how someone might. I wouldn't need to be as cautious outside at least. We shall see...
  17. Matt Stagmire uses a wheel like it to grind fullers in swords.
  18. I still havent made it to Grand Rapids to pick this up but I have been looking at pictures of this today and I realized that the wheel that's on it is a contact wheel. I originally thought it was 2 plates that securely fastened the wheel but that's not what it is. It appears to be a 1/2 inch wheel with a small rubber strip around it.
  19. t cudworth


    Dam Clint, that is beautiful! I love the recurve angle. Everything looks very good together!! Tom
  20. Yesterday
  21. I was thinking the same thing Geoff. In the grand scheme of things though, that's pretty much all I'm really hammering on anyway. If it's cheap, and hits faster and harder than I do by hand, it'd be worth it. I'm not sure what the stroke length of a hammer like this is though. It wouldn't do a whole lot of good if I had to keep resetting the depth while drawing out a bar.
  22. Some weird stuff going on in this blade, I don’t know if I will be able to explain it. Before the last re heat treat, I didn’t not sand off the etched Hamon. Now it’s still showing up on the blade, what’s going on here?? I ground off one side of the Hamon, and re etched it, now the current Hamon shows up, but the old one also shows up on the areas of the blade where I didn’t grind very deep. In the pictures you can see the areas where the previous etched Hamon is showing up. On the areas that where ground down the most, the new Hamon is showing up and ye old one is gone. I don’t know what the heck is going on so could someone enlighten me into why this piece of steel is so stubborn?! I don’t think it will be a problem, I’ve just got to grind a little bit deeper into the blade.
  23. thank you for the info
  24. You just made several hundred people hate you, you know.
  25. that’s awesome thanks for all the help. Cant wait to put her to work! Best part about it is I got it for free from my best friends father !
  26. We have a whole sub-forum for heat treating. Here is the most recent 80CrV2 thread from there.
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