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  2. Thanks Jake, I'll keep that in mind. My plan will actually have the ricasso looking a lot like what your habaki does. First I need to get the edge straight. I layed it out at work today and there are a couple areas where the bevels come down to the center line, I found a slight warp near the tip as well. Back to the forge......
  3. I can only imagine.... Looks great guys!
  4. Hi Aaron. Another thing you might want to think about is the potential temperature swings when heating in an oven used for cooking. When I was using my cooking oven to temper my blades a couple of years ago I loaded up the oven with a bunch of chunks of steel to act a a heat soak in an attempt to have the oven maintain a more steady temperature.
  5. Did you acid etch to try and bring the Hamon out?
  6. Today
  7. Alan that makes sense. Yes I am familiar with the brass rod test. So I guess I will continue on with grinding the blade. If it seems to brittle on the brass rod back to the oven. If it goes back to the oven I will try to find a better thermometer. Should I try 1 more 2 hour cycle at 400? Aaron
  8. Well, if the knife is as brittle as the test coupon, the brass rod test could chip the edge. But that's how it works, so you may have to do that to get everyting dialed in for your steel and location. You do know how to apply the brass rod test?
  9. Thanks Alex and Alan! So the oven just has a knob dial in Celsius. I do have a thermometer in the oven but it’s not the best quality... it was reading at 400F. The knob was set at about 240c witch should be 460F but this oven dose not reach as hot as the knob says it dose. It takes longer to cook things than it should. Some of that is from being at 9,000” above sea leave thought. Should I try to find another oven thermometer before I do much grinding to double check? Or do I move forward with grinding and try the brass rod test like Alex suggested? Aaron
  10. Hwzt all. Another big project with a few firsts out the way for me. It's a 17" total length bowie, take down construction with a copper frame handle. The steel started out as 3 separate pieces of 1070 that I forge welded into one big billet. I did clay it and differentially heat treat it but no hamon showed up in polishing, so not sure what happened there. Here are the details Steel: 1070 (3 layers forge welded together, hada technique I believe) Riveted langets: copper Guard: 5160 Spacers: copper and African blackwood Frame: fileworked copper Handle scales: African blackwood (dalbergia melanoxylon) Pommel: copper Pommel nut: 1070 Sheath: hand carved and stitched veg tan Here is the final shots (also tried my hand at some editing), followed by pics of WIP. Original design work Successfully forge welded the 3 layers of 3mm 1070 plate together. Was surprised to get an average of 8.5mm thickness across the billet after setting the welds my forging is still very much on the safe side. Forge thick and over scale, grind to final shape and dimensions. I did get some distal taper in at least. pre heat treat grinds just after quench. Nice and straight and I thought the hamon took but it never showed up again. planning the frame and langet combo blade polished up and langets riveted on handle pretty much all together but guard not bent yet guard bent up handle polishing Final shots
  11. Yep. You should really subscribe to Dave's quarterly newsletter. I knew about this one a while ago. Plus there's all kinds of other nifty stuff going on up there on the island.
  12. Keep this up and y'all may get a pin. Just sayin'.
  13. The grain looks good! And I agree with Alex, your oven temperature may be off. O-1 never gets seriously flexible, but it can be tough enough to be hard to break. At 400 degrees it should take more than a hammer blow to snap it. Can you get an oven thermometer to check it with? I know my oven runs 50-75 degrees hotter than the dial says at 400, slightly less the lower you go.
  14. A potential alternative to the ricasso/plunge lines problem is to use a habaki instead:
  15. Nice! The wife stamp of approval is always good! I remember you mentioning she had her doubts (in a PM I think)... It's not done yet (several critical parts to go), but I'm glad I'm getting her to sway
  16. I showed this to Liz last night. (she was skeptical about the collaboration effort when I proposed it) She said "wow. That's beautiful and it's nothing like you have ever done." To wit, my response "That's why I asked him to do it."
  17. Not yet. This was practice blade #3. Nice sword.
  18. LMAO. I just made the connection with fork or track.
  19. heres the link to the video if you'd like to check it out...
  20. Nice blade. I think I would bring the blade down to the point where you can do a brass rod test. It sounds like your oven thermometer might be a bit off on the cool side, but I think it would be best to test it first.
  21. Glad you like it! this is important when your working with something that someone else has worked on!
  22. Forged my first sword. I'm going for a crusaders 2 hander. I still have more forging to do. Blade length is 28 inches Over all length is about 38 inches. As of now it weighs 44 ounces.
  23. I believe some steels will retain more austenite if you don't let it reach room temp, which is bad. I even put my 26c3 blades in the freezer after it reaches room temp. No blade cracked so far. So, depending on the steel, it may or may not be a good thing. Of course, most of the RA can be converted to pearlite/ferrite/whatever during the tempering cycles but if you aim for the highest possible martensite %, you want RA to transform to martensite...
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