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  1. Yesterday
  2. Me too! Well, I'll mess with it a little more before I ship it.
  3. This is getting pinned for the excellent demo of how to make the pattern follow the line of the edge. Simple enough, but often overlooked! Thanks, Josh.
  4. Made room for the lathe on the back wall of the shop for the lathe. Now I have to take the motor and gearbox off in order to back the trailer in but I'm making progress.
  5. Great for a first! As for gravers, you can't buy a ready-to-use one no matter what. Gesswein is a good brand, I use mostly a #4 from Jantz.
  6. Ooh, that stuff saved me replacing about $5000 worth of sticky windows! I had no idea it was good for carving tricky woods. I have always heard silicone causes problems with finishes so (among other reasons) it never occurred to me to try it.
  7. We always drop them at least once.
  8. Thanks Doug. The recesses are only shallow depressions in the pommel. I've read quite a bit about gravers here and on some other sites. I tried making one about 2 years ago and I didn't have much success with it, even following the great sharpening advice posted on this site. For those of you who buy your gravers, where do you buy them and what brand as well as style/shape would be good to start out with?
  9. I did consider that though using a paint can (lasts a few hours). It will hit welding temp and over in under 10 minutes. Using the same bricks. Also it has issue's with blowback though I know why. Could the tank itself be losing to much heat due to its surface area? It works fine for stock steel forging but that no fun. I can weld with a paint can but one can a day isn't very feasible. Haha Perhaps I could use it for a space heater?
  10. You might want to look into some gravers to cut the brass windows or, if the windows go all the way through, some needle files. Anyway, a very nice looking job. Doug
  11. Aaand done. The sheath was supposed to be brown, but came out closer to black. Other than that, and a small ding on the butt of the knife from dropping it on the concrete, I'm really happy with it. Now on to the next one!
  12. Thanks Garry. I used a small burr attachment on a rotary tool to clean up the bezel recesses and while that worked well in most areas, it also caused some flaws as the burr removed areas I didn't want - the ever present curse of rotary tools. I just didn't know of a better way to clean up the bottom of the recesses.
  13. Everything with "first" is bound to be improved on with subsequent makes but the most important thing its the essons and skills that make improvments follow on. For a first that is a very credible offering.
  14. It is a siicone spray that dries almost instantly and is a great lunricant. I use it a lot on the table of my thicknesser/planer and it has a very real effect on metal surfaces as well as wood. https://www.crc.co.nz/808-Silicone/6895-15e667c2-8e92-4224-8674-7086168c93ea/
  15. This is my first ballock dagger that I have been working off and on (mostly off) for the past 10-12 months. This is also the fist time I carved a handle and tried to cast something. The pommel is a simple sand cast - I carved a pommel out of wood and pressed it into the casting sand to make the mold and just poured brass over it, cutting and grinding away the overflow. The blade is 5160, handle is boxwood and the fittings are brass. The "garnets" are cast UV resin, also a first for me. I definitely learned a lot in the carving, casting, and resin process. Hopefully, the next one will not have all the of flaws that glare at me every time I look at it. Overall, I am happy with the way it turned out....one more step of progress in trying to make a "perfect" piece. As usual, my photography skills with a phone are lacking.
  16. So the client has picked a blade and handle style, so I'm ready to finish working the blade. I start with a design drawing. After cutting off the first 1" of the bar to use as a spacer, I can do the light forging to shape. This is one of those patterns that I do not like to do any serious forging to shape on, because it might disrupt the pattern significantly. Because I like using templates, I created a template for this blade from my design drawing. The arrow on the template indicates the spot where the dropped point intersects the straight spine. I will use this in the next few steps. There are two different ways I handle the tip/point. One is to just cut/grind the bar to profile shape and let the pattern terminate wherever it meets the profile curve. The other one is to shape the point so the pattern flows with the curve and terminates along the top edge of the dropped point. This requires removal of a portion of the bar. I lay the template on the bar and mark the location of the intersection (where the arrow is) on the bar. Now I rotate the template until the point meets the bottom corner, and the top of the template meets the mark on the bar. Scribe the curve of the dropped point and remove the excess. The straight edge of the bar is where the blade edge will be. This needs to get forged upward until the tip matches the template. Hammering is done on the anvil, with the blade edge up. I forge in the point, tang and start the choil until it matches the template, or is a little oversized.
  17. Hey all, The second run seems much more promising. I do have one question regarding forging these. How Important is thermal cycling at the beginning and is there a difference in terms of fuels for forging ie. Propane coal or charcoal for which is better. I started forging the first of them in a coal forge. Thanks
  18. Thank you all for the kind words!
  19. For knife sheaths, belts, etc., I submerge when everything is done.
  20. The bricks may be the problem. They are heat sinks and will not hit welding heat for an hour or more. Try it with kaowool.
  21. I’m not familiar with dry glide Garry. What is it?
  22. Ritual, this is more of Kriss Ritual, I will argue anyone Malay, Thai, whoever that this knife is a weapon of death, a badge of status, but video is fun. Sadly, FMA Philipino Martial Arts, Dan Inosanto, others, never bothered to study how wootz steel migrated from India by land and sea. They chose to believe that steel was invented, produced, and historical blades were designed in the Northern Islands of PI, not crossed from Maylay to Ache, then distributed from island to island to the Sulu Sultanate, modern day Mindanao, then north to Cebu, then on. No weapon in Dans book was known or made outside of Sulu. The northern islands were ignorant tribesman until Megaton was killed by Lapu lapu a Muslim. Now in fantasy world, Lapu Lapu is a Christian? Not trying to show off but get a couple weird things about knifes and steel out there to be digested by historians While I was in Asia, some guys on a major knife forum claimed I was a liar, not from Arkansas, who the heck lies about being from Arkansas???????? lol. Steel cannot lie,,,,,, ENJOY!
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