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  2. @Gerhard Gerber The brochure only says N + so I'm not sure what that means, as this is the first info sheet I've ever really looked at for metallurgic properties. The guy said he simply grabbed it from outside and wiped it with a rag and WD40 to get the finish in the pics. It seems that this may be destined for handle and bolster material, which is perfectly fine. This is going to be 44 pounds of known quality steel for $20 shipping The brochure also points out that the steel is delivered prehardened and tempered to 320 HB (which the Google says is about 34-35 HRC)
  3. Today
  4. Has anyone tried it? The idea just popped...
  5. Plus I don't think that one offers enough support to prevent blade chatter.
  6. Might wanna review the specs for 5160. Looks like a tough steel to me. Idk how that much chrome will make it behave, nor the complexity of HT... Edit: Oh, its .05%... I see that I've misread that....Yeah, good luck!
  7. I made some more charcoal and started building my 1800 liters charcoal oven
  8. Yesterday was Amateur Hour in my shop.... Busy with 2 chef knives 50mm wide 6mm thick 5160 stock....no ideal I know. Full flat grind. Followed the wonderful advice I got here, started with a hollow grind and then took it to FFG on the platen. Great advice, saves a lot of time. Did draw filing through my 3 "grits" to get everything nice and flat, but while sanding yesterday I realized that even with the fear of de-card on my heart, the edges are still to thick for what I will need to do post heat treat then.... This means back to the belt, then the files, then sanding again.
  9. How much Nitrogen? That would explain the stainless and might harden....?
  10. I had a tag end of 1075 so decided to make a pattern for a camp knife/butcher knife. I had made myself one a long time back with a 8 1/2 inch blade for dicing meat etc when breaking down an animal but found it was more blade than I needed so thought this one with a 5 1/5 in blade would be more user friendly I had a bowie marked out as well so had the two of them to do Ground and ready for heat treat I wanted to try for a hamon so mixed up some very fine potters clay (for slip mix usually) with some wood ash and applied it to the blade. I know in hindsight that I had way too much on there which lead to the less than successfull hamon but at least there is the showing of one on the camp knife. The bowie not so much For the handle on the camp/butcher knife I started with a copper bolster and added black paper micarta, some blue G10 and another blaco paper micarta spacer before finishing with the walnut handle
  11. I agree with Eric, with only 0.05% carbon it's not going to harden. That's less than low carbon railroad spikes. With the chromium content just below 15% it's not stainless. I'd call it near stainless which will make it difficult to impossible to weld. Doug
  12. Don't worry about plagiarizing a knife design. I'm sure in the last two or three millennia the design will have appeared before. Doug
  13. Jake is one who would know more than I. All I can add is I always find it harder to draw round stock wider as I can draw bar stock. Gary LT
  14. With only .05% carbon, I don't believe you'll be hardening it any time soon...
  15. So I’ve got a chance to get ahold of some Royalloy (which I’ve never heard of). Found a super nice guy through my livestreaming who has 4 chunks of the stuff who will send them to me for free if I pay shipping. Never heard of the stuff, but here’s the composition (see pic). It’s been sitting outside in the dirt for 4 years he said. Sure doesn’t look like it, which make me think it’s some type of stainless alloy? Is this hardenable? Or will it just make beautiful bolsters/guards? Any help is appreciated. Also, here is a link to the product brochure: https://www.uddeholm.com/app/uploads/sites/54/2018/05/Tech-Uddeholm-RoyAlloy-EN.pdf.pdf Reading over it, it seems hardenable. What is the HRC equivalent of 310-320 HB?
  16. It's the same basic concept, though that cutter would need modifications to cut annealed steel.
  17. some back of an envelope calculations suggest that the maximum width you could get from 5/8ths forged dow to 1/4" flat would be 1.46", so 1 1/4" ain't bad...
  18. Woke up this morning with one of my seemingly bi-annual occular migraines, so I left work early when the headache got good and set in, got home, took a 2 hour nap, and felt okay enough after that to work on this piece o' junk. Need to weld the new guide on next. I'm kind of worried the hammer will be too light now... We shall see...
  19. Did you use the peen side of a cross peen hammer to spread the steel? My guess is you just hit it with the face of the hammer which I believe will get you more length than width especially on round stock.
  20. Has anyone ever tried using one of these for the same purpose? I was going to build one, but if this works, why not? I suppose there's no centering features built in, but that seems easy to add with a few tapped holes and angle iron. https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468334-Router-Ductile-Hardness/dp/B07GW7X35P/ref=asc_df_B07GW7X35P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4012042591667662875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003322&hvtargid=pla-569147430190&psc=1
  21. Yesterday
  22. Thanks for sharing these great images and expertise. I have a hypothetical question for a book I'm working on, set in Bronze Age Crete (1570 BCE - not that anyone except me knows the date). I'm describing the way everyone in this town comes out with what weapons they have when they are being invaded; there were definitely bronze workers in this town, so I've been trying to work out what forge tools they might have that could be makeshift weapons. It'll only be one line, but I always try to get the facts as right as possible to give readers the image. Thanks very much, Wendy Orr
  23. Hello All; I have 3 coil springs given to me by a friend who works building Limo's, They are new, never used and should not be full of cracks, anyway they are 5/8th's inch and I started with a 6" section, and forged by hand. I feel like I got a good uniform thickness 1/4" thick, but I only got 1 1/4" width. Why did I not get a wider section of steel to shape into a knife? I plan on trying to bevel the blade by hand. Any support on why I did not get a thicker piece out of what I forged would be most appreciated, what did I do wrong?? G George
  24. If i make the edge any thinner it’s gonna be way to thin, I’ll figure something out.
  25. Here's a pistol holster that I just clear coated last night...
  26. To seal the leather after you dye it you need to use a clear coat to lock in the color. Tandy leather sells several suitable products such as satin sheen of gloss sheen. after the color is locked in the you can apply wax on top of it to polish it up.
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