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  2. Welcome to the addiction, David. How slow are you talking about? And what's you criteria for hot enough?
  3. They work great with a treadle hammer. I wouldn't use any tooling without something like this if anything other than my right hand was swinging the hammer. I'd be curious to hear what others say about the design of this tooling for use under a power hammer or press. I think it would be better if the tooling was shorter, and maybe slightly fatter head? I have visions of all that power shooting the tooling out to the side if not held perfectly perpendicular to the work.
  4. Hey guys its been a couple days and I got some pictures of the anvil. Just to clarify I have owned and used the anvil for about 6 years but have started to work more on longer blades and the pits and dings do add some to the time it takes finishing. Just figured it was worth a question. I have a 130 pound fisher that has an almost perfect face so I switch between the two currently depending in what I need to do.
  5. Another thing that helps is having a tong clip (or tong ring) so that you don't have to contend with the problem of holding the tongs closed with your legs and can focus solely on holding the piece on the anvil.
  6. I seem to be answering your question more then I normally do for any. Must be bored with lockup :-) Anyway, there's a trick that can be used to hold tongs between the legs. When you put your legs together, put the side of the big toe against the instep of the other foot. Don't know if it will help you, but works for me. The other option is to learn to balance the tongs on the crease of the hip. This is the method Peter Ross uses.
  7. Personal preference and who you learned from. For example: Peter Ross and Joseph Stokes both use/used small tools held with a pair of tongs. Mark Aspery and Darryl Nelson use hand held tools.
  8. Today
  9. A while back, I thought about making up some short tools out of old cold chisels. I began to see through a friend of mine a whole host of tooling made from cold chisels that I never thought of before. Slot punches hammer drifts, other things. I thought about just making short tools because I wondered how feasible it is to use them with other equipment. Like a power hammer or a treadle hammer. I know for power hammers its normal to 'rod them' and I do kind of dream about having some kind of hammer one day . . . far into the future. Are there disadvantages to using short tools rather than just keeping them as a hand held struck tool? I've made up a set of tongs to hold the size I'm starting with. Black Bear forge recently had a video that shows the type that have slit nibs, which I'm familiar with using, I just never used them to hold tooling. These are quite the ugliest tongs I've made. Reins are mig welded on, Nibs are not prefect but they work. Forged from 3/8 x 1. I did not put a recess into the punched tooling, I do know it will have a tenancy to slide around when struck. The two struck tools I've made up so far wound up that way after cutting off the mushroomed end to chisels that had a good spark test. Opinion on advantages or disadvantages?
  10. Tall, no I'm about average, 5 9, but terribly thin. Which makes me wonder a bit that for what I have to do to hold tongs between my legs, I have to cross them, pretty extreme, that it caused me to make my stand a little low. The friend of mine that was teaching me forced to me learn to hold tongs this way as she told me I had to learn to do it. She thought I was afraid of clunking myself, I was more embarrassed about putting the reins there and they just fell to the floor. She yelled and told me cross my legs and just do it. There has been times when working with feet together at the home anvil where it just seemed like everything grooved and that was a clear rhythm when I worked. I just didn't seem to hold onto the rhythm.
  11. You're a blade makin' machine, Garry.
  12. Made a second small batch of strawberry/rhubarb jam. It's tough to do, when someone is eating all the strawberries. Click to choose file
  13. Oh, it appeals to me, Josh. But I'm just about 35 years older than I'd want to be when starting on a project like that.
  14. That's totally understandable. Home is home and work is work! I've k own people who were able to combine the two and have sparkly, happy lives, but I think the two should always be separate. Coming home from work is a release from the cares of the day, but now that just means closing down your computer and going to the kitchen. You need a space...just big enough to do your work in comfort that you can leave at the end of the work day and not deal with till tomorrow. Perhaps a small section of your workshop that you can close off from the dust and can work without interference.
  15. Hmmm, happy with the result, butttt. 1. Hammer handle is to large in circumference 2. Forge gets hot enough but not quick enough 3. Hammer face is to flat So need to grind the hammer face into more of a rounded surface, I have done this but not enough and have knocked marks into the anvil due to miss hits. Need to belt sand the circumstance of the hammer handle down to around 38mm, it’s to large to get good control (ultimately need a better hammer, but that’s not the major problem for now). I changed out the mig tip ( jet ) from a 0.6 to a 0.8mm thinking more gas would be better. I’m now thinking the larger jet reduces airflow therefore giving a leaner mix. I’ll change it back and see what happens. Learnt a lot about moving the work around the anvil to get a desired shape and drawing out the stock. Anyway good fun.
  16. Last weekend we camped at an amazing site in the Khomas Hochland, and the long weekend before that a very pleasant birthday escape to the coast. Lockdown has mostly been lifted and since yesterday we can buy booze legally again.....except that the shops were emptied out during the AM. My employer has declared working from home the new normal, renovations have been stopped and they're giving up most of the office space we rent. Thanks to my support function I'm clearly picking up a lethargy (being kind) in many of my colleagues, and since I've only given my best to assist them, this is affecting me. Did some soul searching and close as I can come to an answer, I feel like I'm fouling my home (small flat) with my work. My "workshop" is a garage 5 steps from my front door, and I haven't been in there in two weeks. Juxtaposed with the knowledge I should be thankful for having a job at full pay through all this.
  17. Not sure if there was other information you were wanting
  18. Hey all, I'm thinking of getting some bronze bar stock for making guards and such. I don't really care for the look of brass, but I want something easier to work than steel. However, there's a large variety of bronze alloys- phosphor, aluminum, etc. Is anyone familiar with the properties of the various alloys? I guess I'm looking for something a little closer to copper, than brass, appearance-wise. Also, if anyone has any general knowledge or advice that might be useful working with bronze, I'd love to hear it. I haven't used it before, mostly have worked with copper or steel. Thanks, Alex
  19. Small game in 12c27 with eucalyptus over micarta Mini bullnose with matai on the 1084 blade. bullnose skinner with ss bolster, buff horn and ss spacers with tassie blackwood on the 1084 blade. Safari knife with gidgee over ss on 1095
  20. Some more away today and some ready to go 7 inch chef 12c27 and exhibition lacewood burl. Wapiti Hunter Butcher with walnut and CB buff horn on the 1095 blade Light hunter with CB brass and black lacewood on 1084 with steel
  21. Joshua I've always understood that without clamping 440C ran a good risk of warping during heat treat? Is there some process to reduce this like leaving the grinds extra thick? I know I've seen some blades that even clamped and air cooled that had edges like overcooked bacon!
  22. I work with stainless steels occasionally. 440-C and CM-154 (CPM-154 is just a slightly different version and ATS-34 is almost the same stuff). I never forge stainless, they are always stock removal. Regardless of what everyone says about them "requiring" cryogenic HT, they really do not "require" it. The whole cryo thing just eeks out a little more hardness and retains the toughness through some metallurgical wizardry. 440-C only needs to come down to -100*F directly after the quench. (so dry ice works) I use these two steels for the very reason that they can get a pretty darn good HT in a home shop. You can even try the dry ice trick, but use acetone rather than kerosene. For that matter, just sandwich the blade between two blocks of dry ice. It will get you close to the required cryo temp, for the more complex stainless varieties, but still a few hundred degrees too warm (I think). Anyway, they can both be quenched in oil and tempered in a controlled kiln/electric oven to achieve a hardness +/- 60 HRC. Just buy precision ground flat stock and a good bandsaw or angle grinder. Cut out the shape you want and grind it down. There are lots of respectable makers out there who do just that. Here is a Latrobe data sheet for 440-C 440C-DS-Latrobe HT info.pdf
  23. 18" blade, 25" overall. I don't have a scale but I would guess it is at about a pound or slightly less.
  24. Well now. If they are still usable as files, that is a major score.
  25. That's pretty. What are the specs?
  26. I can run the well pump off of my construction site generator if I need to. Heck, I can probably run the whole house off of that generator! That's why I designed the well system the way I did. Always a good idea to have a backup plan. Like I said, it's a lifestyle choice that doesn't appeal to most folks.
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