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  2. I am loving that one Rob. I am feeling the need to do a seax with a carved handle. Hopefully, I can come close to something that nice.
  3. Well, I guess it all depends on how thick it is when it goes into the quench. If you have seen my video on how I quench my blades, you know how I clamp my blades to avoid warpage. If you are using 3/16" flat bar and going for a stock removal method, you could just grind the profile, quench, temper, and grind the bevels in. You could always do a post temper straightening heat. No worries with a quench warp at that thickness. Blades with very thin edges are prone to doing the bacon thing no matter what steel you use. My edges are somewhere around the thickness of a dime going into the quench. Some guys quench at almost finished thickness. I'll be the first to admit that I'm not that confident. On a single edged blade, I will take the bevels up to about 1/4" (or a little less) from the top of the spine. That gives me enough flat to put in my clamp vice thingy. The edge at the thickness I use, always seems to follow the spine. I almost never have any edge warping that I cannot straighten out in the finish grinding. Most of the 440C and CM-154 blades I have made were from 1/8" flat bar for kitchen knives or folder blades. The kitchen knives were ground to the specs I listed above. The folders were simply profiled (with some to spare) and quenched.
  4. Here is a first attempt at a makers mark, I figured before my first sold knife goes to the post office tomorrow I should have some sort of mark on it, so I took a thin square file and made an M. It’s a little rough but with some practice it should look great
  5. I hope you mean 50mm. 8 minutes to heat a 500mm bar would be blazing hot! Anyway, 50mm is about 2" round and that will take a while to get to heat. You weren't using the stock that you show in your post on the 23rd were you? How'd you do that without tongs? So after each forging heat, you'd put it in the forge and it took 8 min to get back to a forging heat? That's not terrible for 2" round bar for a forge that size. There's not much mass to that forge, so it will take a little longer to re-heat because it's heating pretty much solely from the burner and not getting much heat from the forge itself. Did you block up the front a little? If I'm reading correctly, your forge is made of bricks? How long before the side bricks turned orange when you first fired it up? This won't be a fair comparison, because my forge is WAY overbuilt and heavy with a lot of thermal mass to hold heat for forging larger pieces, and it takes about 45 minutes to get the forge up to a uniform heat, but work will re-heat a lot quicker. Depending on how cold you work the piece down to, when I was working on 2" square stock for animal heads, it'd take about 5 minutes to re-heat from a black heat to a bright orange.
  6. That's unnecessary. Be patient. Give it a day or 2.
  7. @Alan Longmire I like that Tire hammer tool PDF. I have a Appalachian style hammer (46 lb ram) and think a lot of those would be helpful,thanks for the information. I made some hand held stuff, but if I'm off with my position they can knock around pretty good.
  8. I made crucibles for the next push. Trying to make a more reliable crucible.....done hoping.things work out . I am looking at a crucible I have never seen (nor remnants of it). I keep hearing it existed ,I think it did .
  9. Yesterday
  10. Commenting on this to bump it up in the feed haha
  11. Never too old to make a mistake or learn something new
  12. Alan ill get the serial number for you according to anvils in America it does fall in a very grey area of the dates as far as what I have.i have long speculated myself which is why I haven't touched it besides forging on it. I'd love to touch it up to get maybe a four inch flat but not at the cost of ruining it. Its a great anvil regardless and it seems for the anvil size it may have been a special order due to the hardy being 1.25 inch
  13. Hi Billy, thinking through it I don’t have enough experience to know if it takes too long or not, it just “seemed” to take a long time. I think if I had better technique I wouldn’t have to keep putting the piece back in the forge. I also don’t have tongs so I was working with a 500mm round bar, so it would have acted as a heat sink drawing the temperature out. To answer your question I reckon it took up to 8 mins to heat up again. Probably not that long if I think about it.
  14. I saw that line, but I just wasn't sure. The 1908's did do the two piece steel top, wrought bottom so I went from there.
  15. Ooh, and I just found this one: http://bamsite.org/books/Tire_Hammer_Tools_small.pdf Excellent stuff for hammer tooling, designed for a smaller hammer.
  16. If using short tooling in tongs, make the tooling as short as possible for the reason Billy mentioned. I use short tools under the treadle hammer quite a bit, and freehand when I need to, which is usually when I want to use a tool I only have in the short variety. Not having your hand in the way is a great confidence booster when you need to take a mighty swing, plus it saves getting burned by radiant heat when punching eyes and such. Under a power hammer the tools are completely different, and are much shorter and fatter. Using a tool like the one you pictured under a power hammer, especially a mechanical hammer that has certain space requirements, is dangerous. The slightest bit off plumb and the tool, the work, or both are going to go shooting across the shop at high velocity. Forge Work by William Ilgen (http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53854, or http://bamsite.org/books/Forge_Work.pdf) has a whole chapter on tooling for use with the steam hammer. He was writing in 1912 and was thinking of 300lb and up hammers, but the principles are the same for smaller ones. My 50lb hammer is just less likely to dislocate my shoulder or impale me with a punch if I screw up. Get one of those free downloads and study it. It's a great book in many ways, and covers stuff the newer books do not.
  17. That sure looks like a top plate to me. Look at the weld line just behind the step. If you have the serial number I can take a look in the Tome and get a rough date. At any rate, milling it off flat will take the hard face off completely. It's shallow-hardening steel and if it's a top plate is only hard for about 1/8" deep, if that. If you feel you must, rather than milling or grinding, use the Sandia instructions. https://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm Note it is important to use the exact rods mentioned.
  18. Whew, it's certainly reassuring I'm not the only crafts person on the forum who has to take "side trips" sometimes.
  19. Well, you made a good call. That bullnose skinner is my favorite of that batch!
  20. This is the little fullering tool I made, ground one end convex and then filed it till it was a smooth round face then I heated it to an orange color and quenched in oil, then tempered it to a dark blue
  21. I love my "job" I do have to admit to having two sets of the scales for the bull nosed skinner with the SS and buff horn sitting on the bench after having had to burn them off and start again. On one the ss spacer was about .5mm off of parallel as I inadvertantly had the buff horn on one side the wrong way round and didn't notice it till I went to shape the handle. The second on the pin I put through to hold the buff, spacer and wood together was a fracxtion hign and I could see the faint lightening of the horn over it as I started the final polish so that was another set I had to burn off. For the third one I cut grooves accross the base of the ss spacer and when the 3 pieces were epoxied together I finished the cuts into the underside of the horn and wood so it has an epoxy kep rather than a pin. Valuable lessons learned as these were both $50 scale sets so there are still some learning experiences to be had that hopefully are not repeated
  22. This is what I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXHRBQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  23. hi folks big hello from the uk I am in the process of building a air hammer and was looking for some help in designing the pneumatic system Ive found quite a lot of info on this forum and found this diagram is what I need for the main valve one of these 5/2 way Pneumatic Air Pilot Valve 1/2 Inch 4A420-15(NPT) and the other valve with the roller arm the same sort of valve ie 5/2 quarter inch with a mechanical roller arm all help would be appreciated thanks tom ps any links of where to buy or help with the or other info would be great thanks
  24. The 1908 models were indeed made without a top plate, the entire upper half was forge steel with a wrought iron base. As such, refacing it won't tear through the steel, but you have to be sure that you're capable of heat-treating it if you go too deep. From the pictures, if you're wanting to take it all the way back to flat, you'll be removing around 1/8" of steel. I can see why you want to do it, there isn't a mark-free space anywhere in the working area. If you feel that you can re-harden it, I would take a angle grinder and flap discs and begin by fixing the radius on the edges and then work the face down to smooth. Heat treating an anvil is no joking matter. The heating part itself is relatively easy, just place it face down on a coal forge and let rip. The cooling and more importantly the timing is where most smiths mess up. You'll need a constant supply of cold water running over the anvil face for quite some time. And while it'll look like its cooled down in just a few minutes, deep inside the anvil it will stay dang hot for quite some time. As such, you have to make sure you've gotten the face hard, but not cooled the anvil down so much that the residual heat wont help temper it. This is dang complicated lol, and I'm far from an expert on the matter. If you have a local blacksmith you can talk to about it I'm sure they can help as well as our knowledgeable members here. Can't wait to see how this goes!!
  25. Welcome to the addiction, David. How slow are you talking about? And what's you criteria for hot enough?
  26. They work great with a treadle hammer. I wouldn't use any tooling without something like this if anything other than my right hand was swinging the hammer. I'd be curious to hear what others say about the design of this tooling for use under a power hammer or press. I think it would be better if the tooling was shorter, and maybe slightly fatter head? I have visions of all that power shooting the tooling out to the side if not held perfectly perpendicular to the work.
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